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THE LIBRARY

OF

THE UNIVERSITY

OF CALIFORNIA

LOS ANGELES

CALEDONIA

CALEDONIA:

OB,

A HISTOEICAL AND TOPOGRAPHICAL

ACCOUNT OF NORTH BRITAIN

FROM THE MOST ANCIENT TO THE PRESENT TIMES,

A DICTIONARY OF PLACES

CHOROGEAPHICAL ANU PHILOLOGICAL.

GEORGE CHALMERS, E.R.S., F.S.A.

NEW EDITION. — VOL. IV.

PAISLEY: ALEXANDER GARDNER.

1889.

C35c

1/; It Seci.Ym.~Its Ecclesiastical Histort/.] 0 f N OB T H - B R I T A I N. 501

CHAP. IV. (Continued.)

Of Haddingtonshh'e.

§ viii. Of its Ecclesiastical History.^ It is an instructive fact that within the Hmits of Lothian scarcely a druid monument remains ; and this fact pretty plainly intimates that some religious event took place within that country dur- ing the obscure events which succeeded the abdication of the Roman power, whereof history is silent. The intrusion of a pagan people upon the Romanized Ottadini, along the southern shore of the Forth, produced, during the fifth cen- tury, the destruction of the Druid monuments within the limits of Lothian.

The conversion of the Saxons of Lothian to the truths of Christianity is an event as darksome as the topic is curious. The worthy Baldred, a disciple of Kentigern, may be considered as the apostle of East Lothian (e). During the 6th century Baldred fixed his cell at Tyningharae, and thence preached the gos- pel throughout the adjacent countiy {f\. We have thus seen that svich a per- son existed during the 6th century, established a religious house at Tyninghame, and thence went out, at stated periods, according to the practice of the age, to inculcate the faith by preaching the gospel ((/). Amidst the obscurities of the 6th and 7th centuries, it is in vain to trace the immediate successors of the deserving Baldred [h). The year 635 is the epoch of the bishopric of Lindis- farne {i), and this bishopric extended over the ample range of Lothian till the

' (e) Major, 68 ; Spottiswoode's Church Hist., 11.

(/) The English Martyrol., 70-1, wherein he is placed under the 29th of March. In Dempster's Menologia Scotice, Baldred is put under the Cth of March. Keith speaks of St. Baldred as the successor of Kentigern and a confessor ; and he martyrs him on the 6th of March, 608 a.d. Keith's Bishops, 232. Baldred died, as we learn from Simeon of Durham, 1. ii., c. 2, on the 6th of March, 60C-7. On the coast of Tyninghame parish, there is a rock called St. Baldred's Cradle. On the shore of the neighbouring parish of Aldhame there is a rock which tradition has named St. Baldred's Boat.

(</) There was a Saxon monastery of St. Balther [Baldred] at Tyninghame. Smith's Bede, 231-54. His district or diocese is described by Simeon : " et tota terra quae pertinet ad monasterium sancti Balthere quod vooatur Ti/ningham a Lambermore usque ad Escenwthe [Inveresk]." Twisden, 69. Imperfect as this delineation is,' it comprehends the whole extent of East Lothian.

(Ji) '■ Anlafus iucensa et vastata ecolesia sancti Baldredi in Tyningham, 941, mox periit." Chron. Melrose. Hoveden says Anlafe spoiled the church of St. Balthar and burnt Tyningham. Saville, 423 ; see Matthew of Westminster. (;) Saville's Chrouol. Table.

Vol. IV., New Ed.

502 " As A C C 0 U N T [Ch. lY.—Hadilingtonsfdre.

(legline of the Northumbrian kingdom (k). The epoch of the cession of Lothian, in 1020, to the Scottish king, is also the epoch of the establishment of the bishop of St. Andrew's jurisdiction over the churches of Lothian. The ai'chdeacon of Lothian, who derived his power from the bishop of St. Andrews, under the reigns of David I. and Alexander I., exercised his authority over the whole clergy of Haddingtonshire. Of old, the three Lothians and the eastern part of Stirlingshire, formed two deaneries within the diocese of St. Andrews, the deanery of Linlithgow, and the deanery of Lothian ; and this last deanery, at the epoch of the ancient Taocatio [1176], included the whole parishes of Had- dingtonshire and nearl}- the half of the churches of Mid-Lothian (l). Before the epoch of Bagimont [1275], the deanery of Lothian had changed its name to the deanery of Haddington, but it retained its ancient limits till the ejDoch of the Rcfcn'mation. The dean of Haddington and the archdeacon of Lothian were ecclesiastical persons of great authority under the bishop of St. Andrews, as we may learn from the chartularies [m). For the better governance of the clergy, the

{k) T3-n;ngliam belonged to the bishopric of Lindisfarne, saith Hoveden. Saville, 418 ; Sim. Dunelm. Col., 139 ; Lei. Col., i., 366 ; ii., 181.

(/) According to the ancient Taxatio, the decanatus de Lothian comprehended the following parishes, which were assessed as under :

In East-Lothi	an.			Mercas.	Ecclesia de Seton -	_	_	Mercas - 18
Ecclesia de Haldhamstok -	-	-	-	CO	Ecclesia de Travernent -	-	.	-	65
Ecclesia de Innerwyk Ecclesia de Dunbar cum capella	de	Whytinge-	30	Ecclesia de Keth-hundby Ecclesia de Keth-marschall	-	-	-	30 12
ham ...	-	-		180	Ecclesia de Ormiston	-	-	-	12
Ecclesia de Tyningham Ecclesia de Hanus [Petcoks] Ecclesia de Aldham -	-	-		40 10 6 100		rick of Eoll.]	Dunkeld]
Aberlady [within the bishop Spot [rectoria in Bagimont's
Ecclesia de Linton -
Ecclesia de North-Berwyk -	-	.		60	In Mid-Lothian.
Ecclesia de Hadingtoun	-	-		120	Ecclesia de Muskilburgh	-	-	-	70
Capella St - - -	-	-		.5	Ecclesia de Cranstoun	-	-	.	60
Ecclesia de Elstanford	-	-		10	Ecclesia de Creichtoun -	-	-	-	30
Ecclesia de Garvald -	-	-		15	Ecclesia de Fauelaw	-	-	-	6
Ecclesia de Barwe	.	-		20	Ecclesia de Locherwort -	-	-	■	40
Ecclesia de Morliam -	-	-		20	Ecclesia de Kerynton	-	-	-	18
Ecclesia de Bothani - Ecclesia de Bolton - Ecclesia de Salton Ecclesia de Penkatland _ -	-	-		30 20 30 40	Ecclesia de Kocpen Ecclesia de Clerkington - Ecclesia de Maistertoii - Ecclesia de Heriet	-	-	-	20 8 4 30
Ecclesia de Golyn	-	-	-	80	Ecclesia de Monte Laodoniae	-	-	-	12

(m) There is a charter of Richard, bishop of St. Andrews, to the monastery of Iladdington, in which Andrew, the archdeacon of Lothian, is a witness. Transact. Soc. Antiq. Edin., i., 112-13.

Sect. VITT —Its Ecclesiastical Histor)/.] OpNORTH-BEITAIN. 503

bishop uf St. Andrews used to call episcopal synods; more anciently at Berwick, as we have seen ; inore recently at Haddington, as we may now perceive (n). There is a composition of the year 1245, between the prior and chapter of St. Andrews on the one part, and the monks of Haddington on the other, in which the chapter " Orientali Laodonie," of East Lothian is very distinctly stated. This co^njjosition was read before the chapter of Lothian, by whom it was testi- fied (o). When the bishopric of Edinburgh was established in an evil hour by Charles I., the ancient authority of the bishop of St. Andrews was taken away, and his powers were transferred to the bishop of Edinburgh (p). The ecclesias- tical affair's of this district continued to be properly managed, till the Refor- mation placed it under the jurisdiction of synods and presbyteries.

Connected with that regimen of old were the religious houses, which owed obedience to the diocesan power of the episcopate of St, Andrews. During the reign of Malcolm IV. the Countess Ada, the mother of Malcolm and Wilham, founded, near Haddington, a convent of Cistercian nuns, which was dedicated to the Virgin, and whose site is still marked by a village, which is called the Abbey (q). This monastery, before the age of David II., was very richly endowed by the several grants of various personages (r). In the ancient Taxatio the lands of this house were rated at £100. In July 1292, Alicia, the prioress of Haddington, with her convent, did homage to Edward I. (s). On the 28th of August 1 29G, Eve, the successor of Alicia, submitted to the same overbear- ing prince, and, in return, had a restoration of her rights {t). An inundation of the Tyne at Christmas 1358, had well nigh swept away the nunnery, which,

There is a charter of bishop Eoger in which William, the archdeacon of Lothian, and Andrew, the dean of Lothian, ai'e witnesses. Id. Laurence, the archdeacon of Lothian, is a witness to a charter of bishop Malvoisin, from 1202 to 1233. lb., 114. In 1268, on the elevation of William Wiscard [WischartJ from the see of Glasgow to the see of St. Andrews, " Eobertus Wiscard nepos ejus, archi- diacanus Laodonice factus est electus Glasguensis, deinde in episcopum consecratus." Chron. Melrose ; Keith's Bishops, 143.

(«) From attendance at those synods the bishop used sometimes to grant dispensations. He granted to the monks of Durham an exemption from attending his synods at Berwick. Smith's Bede, App. xx. In 1293 Bishop Lamberton exempted the abbots of Dryburgh from attending his synodal meetings at Iladdimjtou. Chart. Dryb., 177, and if those abbots of Diy burgh should attend those meetings on urgent occasions, the bishop granted them a pension, to be paid by the dean of Haddington. Id.

(o) Trans. Ant. Soc. Edin., 119, which is a very instructive document.

(^:>) See the charter of erection in Keith, 28-37. By it the mini>tjrs of Tranent, Haddington, and Dunbar were constituted three of the nine prebendaries ol Edinburgh.

((/) See her grants in the Transact. Antiq. Soc. Edin.

(r) MS. Monast. Scotia. Major, who was born at Haddington, speaks of this house as " monasterium pulchrum, et opulentum.'' («) Eym., ii., 572. {t) Prynne, iii., 653 ; Rym., ii. 725.

504 A N A C C 0 U N T Ch. IV.— Haddingtonshire.

according to the legend of the times, was preserved by the intervention of the Virgin {u). In May 1359, William, the bishop of St. Andrews, more effectually preserved the pi-ioress, her house, and her possessions, by an insjyeximus charter, which speaks of Haddington as being near the hostile border, and subject thereby to frequent devastation, and which confirms her rights and recognizes her pri- vileges (x). The prioress and nuns of Haddington were subject to other at- tacks. The lairds of Yester and Makerstoun ungallantly seized their lands of Nunhopes, and the injured nuns had no other resource than a complaint, in 1471, to the privy council. But the lairds were not to be frightened from their prey, and the prioress brought a complaint of their pertinacity and her wrongs before the parliament, in May 1471. The appropriate judges of such injuries, upon proof of the facts, decreed the two lairds to be committed, and to refund to the prioress and convent the profits of their lands {y). The effluxion of years brought with it other grievances to the prioress and nuns of Haddington. The state of the country was such as that the granges of their convent should be fortified ; and at their grange of Nunraw, in Garvald parish, they had a for- talice. In February 1547-8, Elizabeth Hepburn, the prioress, apjDeared before the regent and his council, and engaged to keep the fortlet of Nunraw from their old enemies, or to cause it to be razed (2). In July 1548, a parliament as- sembled in her nunnery, where it was resolved, by the Estates, to defend their harassed land against their old enemies, and to send their infant queen to France as a place of safety from the fraudulence and force which assailed them (a). The time came at length when the same prioress was required to give a statement of her estate, with a view to the suppression of her nunnery (6). This nunneiy had for its economist old Sir Richard Maitland of Lethington, the statesman, the jurist, the poet (c). The monastery of Hadd-

(u) Fordun, 1. xiv., c. 21.

(x) That charter of bishop William is printed in Trans. Soc. Aut. Edin., 106.

(y) Pari. Rec, 160, states both the wrong and the reparation of the nuns, and incidentally furnishes a singular trait of the rudeness of the times. (i) Keith's App., 56. (a) lb., 55.

(b) In February, 1561, Elizabeth Hepburn, who was now called a venerable ladij, stated that there were then in the convent eighteen nuns, who were each allowed £4 yearly for clothes, 4 bolls of wheat, and 3 bolls of meal, with eightpence a day for flesh and fish. Books of Assumption. She reported her revenues to be in money £308 17s. 6d.; wheat, 7 chalders, 11 bolls. [In this statement the oats are omitted.] She had, moreover, fines, carriages, capons, other poultry, from the tenants on her estates. The Books of Assumption stated this rental somewhat larger. But there had been some dilapidations of the estates of the convoiit when the hand of reform began to be felt.

(c) On the loth of December, 1564, Sir Richard designates himself, in a charter to his son, " Oeconomus monasterii monialium de Hadington." Spottiswoode, 514.

Sect. VIII.— /<s Ecclesiastical History.'] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 50'5

iiigton was given by the queen to her .secretary, William Maitland, Sir Richard's eldest son, who is so celebrated for his talents and tergiversation ; and who is called the father ofmishiefhj Knox, and the chamdion by Buchanan. Wliat was said of Buchanan himself might be appropriately said of Secretary Mait- land,— his abilities were honourable, but his crimes were disgraceful to Scot- land (d).

At North-Berwick, on the south-western side of the town, upon a command- ing height, which looks down upon the Forth and upon the shore of Fife beyond it, Duncan, the Earl of Fife, who died in 1154, founded a convent for Cistercian nuns (e). The founder gave them some lands in his manor of North- Berwick, with the pati'onage of its church and various lands and revenues in Fife; and they acquired the advowson of the chui'ch of Largo, of Kilconquhar, Kilbrachment, and St. Monance, in Fife, with some lands that belonged to each of them. The bishop of Dunblane gave them the church of Logie-Airthry near Stirling. Adam de Kilconacher, the Earl of Carrick, who was their zealous patron, confirmed, in 126G, to those nuns the grants of his fathers {/); and they obtained various lands, tithes, and revenues, in East and West- Lothian, in Fife, in Ayrshire, and in the shires of Berwick and of Roxburgh (g).

((Z) On tlie 13th of December, 1563, Randolph -wrote to Cecil, that " the abbey of Haddington was given by the queen to Lethington," [Secretary Maitland.] Keith, 244. On the 20th of October, 1567, dame Isabel Hepburn, the prioress of this abbey, issued her precept to Eichard Cranston, her baillie, directing him to infeft William Maitland, the younger of Lethington, in the demesne lands of her monastery of Haddington, in the lands of Mortoun, of West Hopes, of East Hopes, of Woodend, of Newlands, of Windislaw, of Snawdown, of Carfrae, of Little-Newton, with the tithes ; all which she had granted him in fee with the consent of her chapter. Spottiswoode, 515. Almost all those lands lie in the parish of Garvald.

(e) Sir James Dalrymple, Col., 268, said he had seen David I.'s charter, confirming that foundation, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and the charters of King William and Earl Duncan, with other charters, from the Kings, the Earls of Fife, from Duncan of Carrick, Adam de Kilconachar, the Earl of Carrick, and from the bishops of St. Andrews, to the monastery of North Berwick ; but that they were all nearly burnt in the great fire at Edinburgh in 1700. Spottiswoode, 515 ; and Keith, 282. Both, being misled by Fordun, mistakingly say that this nunnery was founded in 1216 by a second Duncan, Earl of Fife.

(/) That knightly person, whose very name has been mistaken by the Scottish chroniclers, was the first husband of the Countess of Carrick, the mother of Robert Bruce, the restorer of tlie Scottish monarchy : " An" 1270, obijt Adam de Kilconcath, comes de Carrick, in Anconia, cujus uxorem commitissam de Carrick postea junior Rob. de Bruys accepit sibi, in sponsam." Chron. Melrose.

{g) Among much greater matters, Edward de Lestalric granted them a toft in Leith, with three acres of land, at Greenside which they leased for ever to the monks of Newbotle, for the yearly rent of half a mark legal money. Chart. Newbot., 57-8.

506 A N A C C 0 U N T [Oh. lY .—Haddingtonshire.

In the ancient Ta.catio, the lands which belonged to the nuns of North-Berwick were rated at £66 13s. 4d. In 1290, the prioress of North-Berwick submitted to the overpowering Edward I., and in return she obtained from his policy ■writs to the several sheriffs of Fife, Edinburgh, Haddington, Berwick, and Rox- burgh, to restore the estates of her convent (h). While submission thus ensured protection, the female inhabitants of the nunnery of North-Berwick were safe ; but in the progress of turbulence and warfare, anarchical ages arose, ■when weakness only invited the attacks of violence. Such was the state of Scotland under James III. The servants and the tithes of the prioress, within the parishes of Kilconquhar, Kilbranchmont, and St. Monance, were assaulted and seized by John Dishington and other inhabitants of Fife, which seems to have been noted for violence in eveiy age. The prioress applied to parlia- ment in December 1482, for protection against obvious wrongs, and the Lords decreed the wrong-doers to restore the property taken, and to repair the damages done (i). In the subsequent reign, Margaret Home, the fourth daughter of Sir Pati'ick Home of Polworth, who died in 1504, became a nun, and rose to be prioress in this convent of North-Berwick (k). Her niece, Isobel Home, the third daughter of Sir Alexander Home of Polworth, who died in 1532, from being a nun also succeeded her aunt as prioress (I). We have thus seen that, before the Reformation began, the nunnery of North- Berwick had become in a great measure the inheritance of the Homes. After

(J) Eym., ii., 723. There was a guai'dian of this nunnery as well as a prioress. On the 28th of August, 1296, 'W'^illiam Vicaire de I'Eglise de Lancta, gardeyn de la Priorite de North-Berwick, swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick. Prynne, iii., 660. Sir James Dalrymple, Col., 268, says this convent had a prior as well as a prioress ; but Sir James was not much versed in the details of such establishments.

(t) Pari. Eec, 266. This was the first Parliament after the restoration of James III., when he could Tiardly sustain his crown against the insidiousness of Albany and the intrigues of Angus.

(/.) Dougl. Peer., 445.

(/) Id. In 1532, Dame Isobel Home granted to her half-brother, Alexander Home, in fee, the tithes •of the church of Largo in Fife. Spottiswoode, 516. She was succeeded as prioress by Margaret Home, who, on the 24th of March, 1555-6, granted the tithes of the parish of Logie, in the diocese of Dunblane, to Sir Patrick Home of Polworth, and to his heirs. Id. On the 18th of March, 1569-70, Alexander Home, the second son of Sir Patrick Home of Polworth, obtained a grant " officii Balivatus monasterii de Korth Berwick.'' Id., which quotes the public archives. At the Reformation the income of the nunnery, which was then inhabited by eleven nuns, who had each £20 a year, was stated thus : Money, £556 17s. 8d. : wheat, 9 chalders, 12 bolls ; bear, 19 chalders, 4 bolls ; oats, 14 chalders, 4 bolls ; pease and beans, 3 chalders, 9 bolls ; malt, 1 boll, 3 firlots, and 3 pecks ; 18 oxen, 13 cows; 1 last, 9 barrels of salmon. Books of Assumption.

Sect. \m.—Its Ecclesiastical History.] 0 r N 0 E T II - B E I T A I N. 507

the Reformation, the revenues of this nunnery, which had remained undilapi- dated, were converted by operation of law into a lordship for Sir Alexander Home of North-Berwick, a favourite of James VI. The patronage of the churches of Kilconquhar, Largo, Logie, and Maybole were conferred, by the king's pleasure and the parliamentary power, on several persons who thought themselves entitled to plunder the house which they had assisted in pulling down (»/).

At Gullane, near the church, stood of old a convent of Cistercian nuns, which was a cell of the Cistercian nunnery of David I.'s foundation at Berwick, and which ran the devious course of similar establishments (n). At Elbotle, in the parish of Dirlton, there was such a convent for Cistercian nuns, which was also a cell of the same establishment at South-Berwick (o). Such, then, were the Cistercian monasteries in East-Lothian, of which we have seen the rise, the elevation and suppression.

Of Franciscan friars or minorites, East-Lothian had its share of their estab- lishments. During the reign of Alexander II., a Franciscan monastery was founded in Haddington town (p). In February 1355-G, while Edward III. wasted the whole lands of East-Lothian, he burnt the town and monastery of Haddington with the church of the minorites. Fordun speaks feelingly of this as a sumptuous work, which was universally admired as the ligJd of Lothian (y). Major, on the other hand, inveighs against the minorites for building so costly

(«/) See the act of the Estates on the 4th August, 1565, in Glendook. There is a delineation of the ruins of the monastery of North Berwick in Grose's Scots Antiq., i., 74. (m) Spottiswcode, 512.

(o) Id. The name of El-botle is merely an abbreviation of the Saxon Eld-hoi\e, signifying the old dwelling, in contradistinction, perhaps, to Newbotle, in Mid-Lothian. In Font's map of Lothian, ia Blaeu, the place is called Ohl-Bvttel.

{p) In 1314, Sir John Congalton of Congalton granted to those friars a provision of bread and wiue to the altar of St. Duthac, in the name of the church of those minorites, near to which the bodies of his father and mother were buried ; and the friars were obliged to celebrate the anniversaries of the grantor, and of his father and mother, and of his ancestors and successors, at the said altar, so long as there should be three brethren in the convent. Dougl. Peer., .521. Sir William Seton, during the reign of Eobert III., made a similar grant to the same friars of coals and money. MS. Hist, of the family.

(q) Ford., 1. xiv., c. 13. On the 16th of September, 1421, the Tyne being flooded by unusual rains, carried away twelve mills and entered the friar church in Haddington, so that the valuables in the sacristy and the books in the library were spoilt. lb., 1. xv., c. 34. The western part of this once splendid structure is now used as the parish church of Haddington. The other part of it, being unroofed, is falling fast into ruins. See a view of it in the Trans. Antiq. Soc. Edin., by Col. Hutton of the Artillery, and another delineation in Grose's Scots Antiq., i., 82.

508 AnACCOUNT [Ch. TV.—HaMingtonshire.

a church, and supposes that this cbrcumstance, as much as the sins of the town, may have induced God to give the whole to the flames. For such oracular ob- servations. Major exposed himself to the ridicule of Buchanan and the contempt of Knox, who, without superior learning, were guilty of greater faults.

Haddington also had a house of Dominican or Black Friars', who were intro- duced into Scotland during the reign of Alexander II. ; but nothing of its foun- der and little of its history are known (r). They ran the same course with similar establishments, and when their usefulness was gone their oblivion be- gan. In 1218, Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, founded a house of Red or Trinity Friars at Dunbar ; and the lands which piety or zeal had given them, were transferred, after the Reformation, to George Home of Friarslancls (s). On such occasions this observation must for ever occur, that such lands, in posses- sion of such establishments, were of some use to the public ; but, in the hands of an individual, they were of none. In 1263, Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, founded a house for Carmelites or White Friars at Dunbar ; but it appears not what favourite was gratified with this property, instead of the heirs of the founder {t). At Lufihess, in Aberlady parish, there was another convent of Carmelites, to whom David II. granted a charter of confii-mation, as a tribute of his appro- bation («).

In Haddingtonshire there were at least half a dozen hospitals which had their usefulness during ages of misery. The best endowed in Scotland, perhaps, was the hospital which was founded in 1164 by Malcolm IV. at Soltre. On the summit of Soutra hill, which separates the Lothians from Lauderdale, Malcolm founded his house, for the relief of pilgrims, the sustentation of the poor, and the help of the sickly. Malcolm richly endowed it with many lands. This youthful king gave it the privilege of sanctuary while crimes were not unfrequent ; and there led from it, southward, through the moors to Mel- rose, a path which thus acquired the ajspropriate name of the Girth-gate (x). General Roy, a pi'ofessed quarter-master, was led out of his course of inquiries by this Girth-gate, as we have seen. There was a way which led up Lauderdale to Soutra hill, and which, as we have observed, was called Malcolm's road. The gi'ants of Malcolm IV. to Soltre were confirmed, by his two immediate succes- sors, William and Alexander II., who added to his their own liberalities. From

()•) Trans. Antiq. Soc. EJin., 61 ; Grose's Scots Antiq., i., 82. (s) Spottiswoode, 505. (t) lb., 505.

(u) Robertson's Index, 51. Spottiswoode, in his ambition of knowledge, has mistakingly planted Eed Friars at Lufifness. Acco. of Eelig. Houses, App. to Hope's Minor Practicks, 430.

(x) Iq the Saxon speech, wo may remember, t/irth signified a sanctuary, and gate a way.

Sect. VIII. —Its Ecclesiastical History.] OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 509

bishops, barons, and from inferior persons, the master and brethren of this house obtained churches, tithes, lands, tofts, annuities, corn, meal, and other property, privileges, and exemptions (y). But the master and brethren of Soltre did long enjoy such great estates in quiet. On the 29th of July 1292, Ralph, the master of Soltre, swore fealty to Edwtird I. in the chapel of Edinburgh castle (z). On the 28th of August 1296, Thomas, the master of the Trinity hospital of Soltre, did homage to the same prince at Berwick («) ; and he obtained in return, precepts to several sherifis to deliver him the estates and rights of the hospital (6). In 1410, Thomas de Alton was master of Soltre (c), and in 1440 Thomas Lauder was also master of the same house ; and he was tutor to James II. ; and was made bishop of Dun- keld in 1453. He resigned his bishopric in 1476, being unable, from age and infirmity, to perform the functions of his diocese (d). On the 25th of

(y) To this hospital belonged, from the gift of the founder, the church of Soltre, with its pertinents. It derived the church of Wemyss, in Fife, with its tithes and tofts, from the grant of John de Methkill, during the reign of William, which was confirmed by David and GamelLn, the bishops of St. Andrews. Chart. Solt., 1-38. The church of Urd [Kirkurd], in Tweeddale, with its pertinents, which was confirmed by the Bishop of Glasgow in 1231. lb., 40-2. The church of St. Martin of Strathechyn, with its pertinents, which was confirmed by the Bishop of St. Andrews between 1214 and 1248. lb. 3. The church of Lempetlaw, in Teviotdale, was given to this hospital by Richard Germyn during the reign of Alexander II. lb., 4. The church of St. Giles of Ormiston was given the hospital by William, the Bishop of St. Andrews, from 1202 to 1233. lb., 5. The master and brethren of the house obtained, from Malcolm IV., the lands of Hangandshaw in Teviotdale, which was confirmed by Alexander II. lb., 25-7. They acquired some lands from Simon Fraser in the districts of Keith, Jonestoun, and Keitb-Harvey. lb., 26. Eichard, the expensarius of William the Lion, gave them his lands in Paistoun, in East-Lothian. lb., 22. Thomas de Cranstoun gave them a culture of land within the same district. lb., 15. William de Muleneys gave them half a carucate of land in Saltoun. lb'., 11. Peter de Grame conferred on them three bovates of land in Elviston. lb., 49. Nicholas de Vetereponte gave them the lands of Swanston in Mid-Lothian. lb., 13. In 1228 Alexander II. gave them yearly a thrave of corn from every plough withiu his lands lying southward of the Forth. lb., 41. He gave them also half a chalder of meal yeaily from the mill of Peebles. lb., 8. John de Strivelin granted a thrave of corn yearly from each plough within his lands lying on the south of the Forth. lb., 27. Thomas de Hay made them a similar grant from his lands in the same country. lb., 53. David Olifard gave them a thrave of corn yearly from every plough within his lands. lb., 16. And from various other persons tbey obtained grants of lands, tithes, rents, and profits. See their chartulary, which remains in the Advocates' Library. [Printed in the Bannatyne Club Publications.]

{z) Eym., ii., 572, {a) Prynne, iii., 660. (b) Eym., ii., 726.

(c) Crawfurd's MS. Notes.

(d) On the 13th of March 1480-1, James III. confirmed a charter of Thomas, late Bishop of Dunkeld, and now bishop of the universal church. He died on the 4th of November 1481, after seeing his house, the pious foundation of Malcolm IV., perverted to a different purpose. Keith, 55.

510 A K A C C 0 U N T [Ch. IV .—Haddingtonshire,

March 1462, Mary of Gueldre, tlie widowed queen of James II., founded near Edinburgh, a collegiate chiu'ch, which she dedicated to the Trinity, and which was to consist also of a hospital, for the maintenance of thirteen poor persons ; and for the support of this mixed establishment, the churches, lands, and revenues belonging to the hospital of Soltre, were assigned by apostolic authority for those useful ends (c). At Balencrief, the habitation at the tree, in Aberlady parish, there was an /ios2:)iVa/ founded as early as the 12th century ; though by whose piety it was dedicated to St. Cuthbert is now un- known. On the 29th of July 1292, William Fornal, " magister domus de Ballencrief," swore fealty to Edward I. in the chapel of Edinburgh castle (/). The site of St. Cuthbert's hospital was named by the Scottish settlers here, Balan-an-craobh, which is pronounced Balancreiv, in order to denote the habita- tion at the tree ; and it is now the seat of Lord Elibank. Near Seton there was founded in the 12th century, a hospital which was dedicated to St. Ger- mains, who thus gave his name to the place (g). It is still the seat of a gentle- man. On the 28th of August 1296, Bartholomew, the master of this hospital, swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick (h) ; and in return, he received precepts to the sheriffs of Berwick, Edinburgh, and Fife, of Kincardine and Aberdeen, to restore the revenues of the house, which was tlius situated in several shires (i). At Haddington town, there was of old an hospital which was dedicated to the Virgin, and yet escaped the researches of Spottiswoode {Ic). In the vicinage of the shire town there was a hospital dedicated to St. Laurence, and which left its name to a hamlet on the same site (l). On the estate of Gosford, in Aber- lady parish, there was anciently an hospital at a place which is known by the name of Gosford Spited. At Houston, in East-Lothian, there was of old

(e) Maitland's Edin., 207-10. Nothing remains but the ruins of the hospital of Soltre, on Soutra Hill, near the wayside from Edinburgh to Kelso ; and adjoining them is a spring which was con- secrated of old to the Trinity, and is called by the country people, the Tarnfy [Veil, that was much frequented by diseased persons.

(/) Eym., ii., .572. On the 28th of August 1296. William Tornal, " Gardein de I'hospital de St. Cuthbert, de Balnecryf," swore fealty to the same king at Berwick. Prynne, iii., 6G3.

(g) Among the several St. Qermains, we may suppose the British, as best known, to have been the saint to whom this hospital was dedicated. English Martyr., 97.

(/() Prynne, iii., 6.55. (i) Eym., ii., 725.

(k) Edward II., when he affected the sovereignty of Scotland, on the 19th of July 1319, conferred on Thomas do Gayregrave the custody of the hospital of the Virgin Mary at Haddington. Rym., iii., 786.

(/) James V. made his chaplain, Walter Eamsay, the rector of this hospital, to which the confirma- tion of the Pope was asked. Epist. Eeg. Scot., i., 193.

Sect. VIIT. —Its Ecclesiastical Historij.'] OpNOETH-BRITAIN. 511

an hospital, though the piety of the founder and the site of the foundation he now equally unknown, as folly has changed the name of the place which was once denoted by wisdom (/) ; yet Houston appears as a provostry in the books of the privy seal, as we learn from Keith {in).

Collegiate churches were not known in Scotland till the troublous reign of David II. The first establishment of this kind was founded at Dunbar by Patrick, Earl of March, in 1342, when it was confirmed by William, the bishop of St. Andrews. The constitution of the collegiate church of Dunbar consisted of a dean, an archpriest, and eighteen canons. For their support were assigned the revenues of the church of Dunbar, and the incomes of the chapels of Whittinghame, of Spott, of Stenton, of Panshel [Penshiel], and of Hetherwick. The founder annexed to his collegiate establishment the churches of Linton in East-Lothian, and Duns and Chirnside in Berwickshii'e ; and he reserved the patronage of the whole to himself and his successors, the Earls of Dunbar (/i). This collegiate church was confirmed in 1492 by Henry, the bishop of St. Andrews, who recited the confirmation of his predecessor. By a new regulation of this collegiate church, there were appointed as prebends of it, the churches of Dunbar, Pinkerton, Spot, Beltoun, Petcokis, Linton, Duns, and Chirnside. Except Pinkerton, these were all settled churches (o).

(I) Among tlie East-Lothian gentry who swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick, on the 28th of August 1296, was " brother John, the master of the Trinity Hospital at Howeston." Prynne, iii., 956. A writ was soon after issued to the Sheriff of Haddington, directing the restoration of the property of the Holy Trinity at Howeston. Eym., ii., 726. In Bagimont's Roll the '• magistratus de Howston," in the deanery of Haddington, is rated at £8.

{ill) Hist. App., 257. It had been meantime converted, perhaps, into a collegiate church, (/i) Sir Lewis Stewart's MS. Col., 3. Columba Dunbar was dean of the collegiate church of Dunbar in 1411. In 1429 he was made Bishop of Moray, and he died in 1435. Keith's Bishops, 84.

(o) In Bagimont's Roll the component parts of the collegiate church of Dunbar were separately rated as under : —

In the deanery of Haddington. Eeotoria de Beltoun, - - - £4 0 0

Decanatus de Dunbar, - - - £13 6 8 Rectoria d ■ Petcokis, - - - 2 13 4

Archiepresbyterus, - - - 8 0 0 Rectoria de Linton, - - - 20 0 0 Rectoria de Dunbar, ---800 In the deanery of the Merse.

Prebendarius de Pinkerton, - - 5 6 8 Rectoria de Duns, - - - 10 0 0

Eeotoria de Spot, - - - 5 6 8 Rectoria de Chirnside, - - - 4 0 0

The same rates appear in a tax-roll of the archbishopric of St. Andrews in 1547. Master John Fleming was prebendary of Pinkerton on the 20th of March 1478-9. Pari. Rec, 249.

512 A N A 0 C 0 U N T [Ch. lY .—Haddingtonshire.

The patronage of this collegiate church fell to the king, by the forfeiture of the earldom of March in 1435 {p).

Next in antiquity to the collegiate churcli of Dunbar, within this shire, was the collegiate establishment at Dunglass. Here in 1403 Sir Alexander Home of Home, who derived Dunglass from his mother, Nicolas Papedy, founded a college church for a provost and prebendaries, whom he endowed with several lands and some rents [q). Sir Alexander Home, the son of the founder, gave to this collegiate church four husband-lands in the manor of Chirnside, which were confirmed by James II. (r). In Bagimont's Roll the provostry of Dunglass, in the deanery of Haddington, was rated at £5 6s. 8d. After the Reformation the revenue of the provostry of Dunglass was returned at £82 (s).

At Bothans, wMch was the name of the parish church of Yester, Sir William Hay of Locherwart founded, in 1421, a collegiate church for a provost, six prebendaries, and two singing boys ; and he endowed his foundation with lands and with rents. Sir William Hay, the founder, married for his second wife, Alicia Hay, the daughter of Sir Thomas Hay of Errol, whom he left a widow in 1421, and she outlived him almost 30 years. She granted, for the support of a chaplain in the college church of Bothans, the lands of Blanes, within the constabulary of Hadding-ton, with various rents from tenements in Haddington town, amounting to £4 2s 6d. Thei'e were settled on this collegiate chui'ch also, the lands which her son, Sir David Hay, gave as a mansion for the accommodation of the chaplain and his successors (t). In Bagimont's Roll the prcBjMsitura of Bothans is rated at £40 (u). In December 1475, Muister Andrew Hay, the provost of Bothans, brought a suit in parliament against Robert Lord Fleming, who was adjudged by the lords auditors, to pay the

(y>) Pari. Eec, 72. After the Eeformation, the revenue of the archpriestry of Dunbar was stated at £80. Books of the Collectors of the Thirds.

(5) Dougl. Peer., 343, which quotes the charter in the archives of Home. Nisbet saj-s he saw the arms of Papedy impaled with those of Home, which were cut upon a stone in the chapel of Dunglass. Heraldry, ii., 53. We may suppose the chapel that Nisbet inspected to have been this collegiate church. (r) Spottiswoode, 522. («) The Books of the Collectors of the Thirds.

(<) MS. Donations. On the 8th of March, 1539, Robert Watherston granted for the same purpose, of supporting a chaplain for Bothan's church, a tenement in the Herdgate, and another in the Moor- gate of Haddington, with the several annual rents, amounting to £3 lOs. 8d., in the same burgh, and two acres of land on the northern side of the town. Id.

(u) After the Eeformation, the revenue of this collegiate church was given in at £100 Scots. Books of the Collectors of the Thirds.

Sect. VIII.— /is Ecclesiastical Ilistortj.] OrNORTH-CEITAIN. 513

complainant 13 marks 10s. and 8d. for the debt (a). Some doubts have been entertained, though without a cause, whether the collegiate church of Bothans and Yester be the same. In the ancient Taxatio the church was called " ecclesia de Bothani." Like other establishments, it was sometimes called St. Bothans, from the patron Saint, and sometimes Yester, from the place (&).

At Dirlton, there was founded in 1444 a collegiate church with a small establishment by Sir Walter Halyburton. Its endowment seems to have been inconsiderable. Even at the Reformation, its revenue was returned only at £20 (c). Till that epoch the patronage of this collegiate church continued as a pertinent of the barony (J). The splendid church of Seton was made collegiate by George, Lord Seton in 1493. He herein formed an establishment of a provost, six prebendaries, two singing boys, and a clerk ; and he assigned for their support the lands and tithes of this church, with the chaplainries which had been founded in it by the piety of his ancestors (e). In Bagimont's Roll, the praepositura de Seton, in the deaneiy of Haddington, was rated at £2 13s. 4d. At the Reformation, the revenue of this provostry was returned at £40 (/). In 1544, the English invaders, on their return from wasting Leith, burnt the castle of Seton ; and in their rage spoiled the collegiate church, carrying away the bells, organs, with the usual ornaments and other move- ables, which they embarked on board their attendant fleet ((/). Near Seton, at St. Germains, there was an establishment of the Knights Temjjlars, which, with their revenues, were bestowed by James IV., after their suppression, on the ■ King's College of Aberdeen (/i). In those religious establishments we may perceive the singular manners, perhaps the munificent piety, of several per-

(a) Pari. Eec, 192. In 1469 Andrew Hay, the second son of Sir David Hay of Yester, was rector of Biggar.

(J) The village at the church was also called Bothans. In 1320 Sir John Gifford, of Tester,- granted to the monks of Dryburgh an annual rent from his village of Bothan. Dougl. Peer., 709. Yet Spottiswoode has made them two different places. Acco. of Eeligious Houses, 519-29.

(c) Books of the Collector of the Thirds. {d) Act 2 of the 16 Purl., James VI.

(e) His charter of foundation, which was dated on the 20th of June, 1493, was confirmed by Andrew, the abbot of Newbotle, as the Pope's delegate. Lord Seton built for his collegiate church a new sacristry, which was covered with stone. The founder died in 1507, and was buried near the high altar of his college church. Spottiswoode, 528 ; Sir Eichard Maitland's MS. History of the Seton family.

(/) Collector's Books of the Thirds.

{g) Old Sir Eichard Maitland, who lived at the time of those terrible events, testifies the facts in his MS. Hist, of the Seton family.

(h) Spottiswoode, 479.

514 An ACCOUNT [Ch. lY .—Haddingtonshire.

sonao-es who dignified this shire by their residence, and improved it by their practices.

The Reformation changed the ecclesiastical regimen of East-Lothian with- out addiiic much to its morals. Of old, Haddington was the seat of a deanery as well as the place of synodical meetings of the diocese. Since that epoch it has become the seat of a presbytery, which comprehends fifteen of the East-Lothian parishes. The town obviously gave its name to the parish, to the presbytery, and to the shire ; and the town derived its appellation from being the tun, or village of a Saxon settler called Haden, who sat down here, on the bank of the Tyne, after the Scoto-Saxon period began. The origin of the parish is lost in the obscurities of the preceding age. It was already a parish at the accession of David I. to the throne, and during those times it was of much larger extent than at present. It comprehended a considerable part of Athel- staneford parish till the year 1G74, and a large part of Gladsmuir parish till 1692. The ancient church of Haddington-s/wVe was dedicated to the Virgin INIarj^ who was the common patroness of similar establishments in this district. About the year 1134, David I. gi'anted to the church of St. Andrew of Cilrimont, or priory of St Andrews, in perpetual alms, the chui'ch. of St. Mary at Had- dington, wnth its chapels, lands, tithes, and other dues, with every thing belonging to it within the same parish (i). He soon after gave to the church of St. Maiy at Haddington, and to the priory of St. Andrews, the lands of Clerkton, accord- ing to their true boundaries, on both sides of the Tyne above the town, as the limits had been perambulated ; and he also conferred on those churches a toft in Haddington, near the churcli, with the tithes, as well of the mills as of other objects within the w'hole parish (k). All those grants were confirmed by David's grandsons, Malcolm IV. and William. They wei'e also confirmed by their diocesans, the successive bishops of St. Andrews. Under all those confirmations, the church of Haddington remained annexed to the priory of St. Andrews, and was served by a vicar, till the Reformation introduced here a very difierent system. In 1245, a convention, which was entered into within the church of Lauder, was made between the prior and convent of St. Andrews, and the master and monks of Haddington, for settling lasting disjiutes with re- gard to tithes and other ecclesiastical dues (l). In the ancient Taxatio, the church of Haddington was rated at 120 marks, while the chapel of St. Laurence, which belonged to it as the mother chui-ch, was rated at five marks. The patronage

((■) Diplom. Scotise, pi. xvi. {h) Id., xvi.

(I) Tians. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 119.

Sect. \ni.—Iis Ecclcsia.-tical Histonj.] Or NORTH-BRITAIN. 515

of the church belonged to the prior of St. Andrews, and the patronage of the chapel to the nuns of Haddington. There was also a chapel in Haddington which was dedicated to St. Catherine. In the same neighbourhood there were also two chapels belonging to the same church ; the one was dedicated to St. John, which probably belonged to the Knights Templars ; and the other to St. Kentigern ; and there was a chapel within the barony of Penstoun, which formed the western extremity of Haddington parish till 1695, when it was annexed to Gladsmuir parish. All those chapels were founded b}' the piety of ages, which have been long considered as superstitious by those who do less and talk more. At the Reformation the patronage of the church of Haddington belonged, under those grants and confirmations, to James Stewart, the prior of St. Andrews, the bastard brother and minister of Mary Stewart, the well-known Earl of Murray. When the Earl of Morton became ruler of Scotland in the quick succession of regents, he acquired the vast estates of the priory of St. Andrews, by appointing a nominal prior and taking the property to himself. Of the corruption, which had been recently reformed in some measure by his agency, there was nothing more corrupt than this appropriation of the priory by the regent Morton. When this guilty noble was executed for his participation in the murder of Darnley, the temporalities of the prioi'y became forfeited to the king. James VI. now converted the whole into a temporal lordship, for his cousin and favourite, Esme. Duke of Lennox ; and his son, Ludovic, sold the patronage of the church of Haddington, with its tithes, both pai'sonage and vicarage, in 1615, to Thomas, the first Earl of Haddington, who obtained, from the same king in 1620, a confirmation of his purchase ; and the Earl of Haddington, at the beginning of the 18th century, sold that patronage, with his pi'operty in Haddington parish, to Charles, the first Earl of Hopetoun. In this family the patronage of Haddington, which was thus acquired, still continues. At the end of thirty years, after the Refor- mation, the church of Haddington, the chapel of St. Martin, and the church of Athelstaneford, were all served by one person (7?!.). This paucity of preachers, owing to the penury of provision in the reformed church, continued till 1602. George Grier was now ordained the minister of St. Martin's chapel, and he was the last who ofiiciated in this ancient fane Qi). The church of Haddington was appointed, in 1633, one of the twelve prebends of the chajiter of Edin- burgh (o). At an episcopal visitation in 1635, it was agreed by the bishop of

{m) This fact appears from the Presbytery Eecords, which are preserved as far back as 1592. (n) Trans. Antiq. Soo. Edin.. 67. (o) Charter of Erection.

51G AnACCOUNT [Ch. TV.—Haldingtonshire.

the diocese of Edinburgh, and the magistrates of Haddington, that a second minister had become necessary for the church of Haddington ; and of con- sequence, Wilham Trent was collated to this charge, when his stipend was settled at 600 marks, payable by the magistrates of the town. They now claimed the patronage of this second minister, whom they had thus established and paid. But this pretension was contested in 1680 by the Earl of Hadding- ton, the patron of the church. The College of Justice declared in favour of the patron's right ; and this decision was afterward regarded as a precedent, which, on an appeal to the House of Peers, was affirmed as law and right (p). [The Abbey Church, which was i-epaired in 1811, has two charges, with 1156 communicants ; stipends, each £444. There is also St. John's Chapel of Ease, erected in 1838. Free St. John's has 381 members ; two U. P. churches have together 360 members ; an Episcopal Chapel (built in 1770), has 94 com- municants. There is also the Roman Catholic Chapel of St. Mary's.]

The parish of Athelsta^ceford, whatever Gaelic etymologists may say, derived its name, probably, from a place that owed its appellation to some pereon. To Athelstan, the Anglo-Saxon conqueror who over-ran Lothian in 934 A.D., is attributed this name (q). Camden contradicts this probabiUty by saying that an English commander, called Athelstan, was killed here in 815 a.d. ; and Buchanan romances about a Danish chief who was slain here by the Picts; but neither Camden nor Buchanan assigns any proof for his assertion (r). The village and church of Athelstaneford stand on a road, near a passage over a rivulet, which is called Cogtal-burn. The name of the ford on this stream was very early vulgarized to Elstanford, and in the Compositio, 1245, it was called with the Saxon aspirate Ilelstanfoord (s). The countess Ada appears to have possessed the manor of Athelstaneford as a part of her jointure. When she founded the convent of nuns near Haddington, she gi'anted to it the church of Athelstaneford, with the tithes and other ecclesiastical dues belonging to the

(p) Trans. Soc. Antlq. Edin., 67. For more recent particulars of this parish, see the Stat. Acco. of it, and the Tabular State annexed. [Also Martina's Burgh of Haddington. 1883, and Miller's Lamp of Lothian, 1844.]

(q) Sax. Chron., Ill ; Florence, 349 : Malmsbury, f. 27 : Whit. Cathedral of Cornwall, 6. A Gaelic etymologist would state his sentiments thus : There is at the place a rivulet, which is passed by a. ford, that conducts the passenger to the village by a narrow, deep, and stony path. Li the Gaelic speech, Ath-ail means a Stoneford; whence may be inferred that the original name is a redundant pleonasm. The Saxon settlers, finding the Ath-ail already in existence, superadded Stoneford, which is merely a translation of the Gaelic appellation.

(r) In a charter of David I., Diplom. Scotia, pi. xiv., Ethelstan is a witness ; and it is unnecessary, by refinement, to search in the obscurities of elder times for what may be found in recent charters. [See also Skene's Celtic Scotland, v. 1, p. 299.]

(s) Li the 12th century there was a place in Teviotdale named Elstane's-halch. Chart. Mel., 25.

Sect. YUl.—Its Ecclesiastical History.] 0 f N 0 R T H - B E I T A I N . 517

same church {t). The Hherality of Ada was confirmed by several bishops of St. Andrews. The church of Athelstaneford, with its pertinents, continued to belong to the nuns of Haddington till the Reformation changed the ancient regimen. As the parish of Athelstanford was of old but small, the church was not of great value. In the ancient Taxatio, the church of Elstaneford was rated only at ten mai'ks. In 1G74, this parish was greatly enlarged by annexations from the parishes of Haddington and of Prestonkirk [u). A new church and manse were built in the enlarged parish of Athelstanford, about 1784 (,c). [The present parish church was erected in 18G8. Communicants, 300; stipend, £342.] The parish of North-Berwick derived its name from the town ; and the village obtained its Saxon appellation from the same source, as the Berwick- upon-Tweed, which, in the charters of the 14th, 13th, and 12th centuries, is distinguished as South-Berwick, while the more northern town was usually called North- Beriviclc. In those charters, and in the Northumbrian topography, the common orthography of the name is 5ar-wick, or Barewick, — the bare, or naked village or castle ; the only difficulty being to discover whether the Saxon ivic was first applied, in fact, to a castle or a village. The probability is, that it was to the village, before any castle existed on the site of North-Ber- wick, which stands on the naked shore of the Forth; being a small, narrow pro- montory projecting from the town into the firth. Before the reign of David I., a church and parish existed here, from a period of such obscurity as not to be easily penetrated. Under that monarch, the manor of North-Berwick belonged to Duncan, the Earl of Fife, who died in 1154. He founded here, as we have seen, a convent for Cistercian nuns, to whom he granted the church of North-Berwick, with its tithes and pertinents. The church of North- Berwick was dedicated to St. Andrew ; and there was an altar in it which was erected to the Virgin Mary (y). This church seems to have been of consider- able value. It was valued in the ancient Taxatio at GO marks. It remained

(t) After Ada's death, in 1178, the manor of Athelstaneford wa-s granted by her son, William the Lion, to John de Montfort, who, as dominus de Elstaneford, granted to the monks of Newbotle a stone of wax yearly. Chart. Newbotle, 216. The lands of Elstaneford, as they were forfeited in the succession war, were granted by Robert I. to Richard Ilereis. Roberts. Index, 1 1 . The same lands appear to have again fallen to Robert III., who granted them to John Dolas. lb., 141.

{u) Trans. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 41 ; Stat. Ace, x., 169,

(j-) Id. For other particulars of this parish, see the Stat. Acco., x., 161, and the Tabular State annexed.

{u) -A-gnes Fawlaw, the wife of Robert Lauder of the Bass, with the consent of her husband, granted an annuity of 10 marks from a tenement in Edinburgh, and five marks from a tenement in Leith, for supporting a chaplain to oflSciate at the Virgin Mary's altar in St. Andrew's Kirk at North Berwick : and this grant of the pious Agnes was oonfii-med by Jame; IV. in 1491. MS. Donations, 41. 4 , 3 W

518 An ACCOUNT ICh. IV.— Haddingtonshire.

in the patronage of the nuns of North-Berwick till the Reformation swept such establishments away. Meantime, the manor of North-Berwick changed its lords in some measure with the changes of the times. It continued in the ancient family of Fife till the accession of Robert II., the first of the Stewarts. Isabel, Countess of Fife, the last of her race, resigned this manor to Robei-t Duke of Albany, who seems to have transferred it to William Earl Douglas. On the forfeiture of James Earl of Douglas in 1455, this manor was gi-anted with most of his forfeiture to his heir-male George Earl of Angus, and in this family it long continued with Tantallon castle, the seat of their power, and the safeguard of their crimes. There is an act of the parliament, 1597, "anent cei'tain kii-ks of North-Berwick" (ij). The site of the Cistercian nunneiy, with much of the property belonging to it, were granted by James VI. to Alexander Home of North-Berwick. But whether he acquired the advowson of the parish church is uncei'tain, as his family failed, and the property of it was transferred to other owners. A ratification, indeed, was passed in the parliament of 1640, to Sir William Dick, of his right to the lands and tithes of North-Berwick barony (2). The patronage of the parish church of North-Berwick with the site of the nunnery and the lands that belonged to it were afterward acquired by Hew Dalrymple, who became president of the College of Justice in 1698, and purchased from the Marquis of Douglas, the representative of the Earls of Angus, the i-emainder of the manor of North-Berwick, which Avas now called Tantallon, from the castle. After all those transmissions, the jaroperty of the whole now belongs to Sir Hew Dalrymple of North-Berwick (a). [The present parish church was erected in 1882. Communicants, 581 : stijjend £511. A Free Church erected in 1844 has 163 members. A U.P. Church (1872) has 223 members. St. Baldred's Episcopal Chapel (1859-63) has 60 communicants. There is also a Roman Catholic Chapel erected in 1879.]

The ancient name of Dirlton parish was Golyn ; and the old church stood at the village of Gullane till the year 1612, when it was removed to Dirlton by act of Parliament. Golyn derives its name from the British Go-li/n, signifying a little lake; and in fact, there is still a pond here within the village of Gullane. The church of Gullane, which was dedicated to St. Andrews, is veiy ancient. Yet the epoch of St. Andrew's patronage is only the ninth century ; and from this circumstance we may infer how old the numei'ous chui'ches are in this shire, which were dedicated to the renowned protector of the Scottish people. The Cistercian nuns whom David I. brought to South-Berwick appear to have acquired a right to some of the tithes and other ecclesiastical dues of the church

(i/) Unprinted Act, 15 th Pari. James VI. (z) Unprinted Act, 2nd Pari. Charles I.

(a) For other paiiiculars, the curious reader may consult the Stat. Acco. and the Tabular State subjoined. [Also Terrier's North Berwick, 1871.]

Sect. YIIL— Its Ecclesiastical Ilistorn.'] OpNORTH-BRITAIN. 519

of Gull;! tie (Z>). The Anglo-Norman family of De Vallibus obtained a grant, during the 12th century, of the manors of Gullane and Dirlton, with a part of the lands of Fenton, which formed a great portion of this parish. During the reign of William the Lion, William de Vans granted to the church of Gullane the meadow that was adjacent to the church (c). He soon after, however, transferred to the monks gt Dryburgh the church of Gullane, with its tithes and other pertinents, reserving the right of his son, William de Vaus, to the rectory of Gullane during his life (d). This grant was confirmed by the diocesan, and by the Pope's legate in Scotland (e). In the ancient Taxatio, the church of Gullane was rated at not less than 80 marks. After the death of William de Vallibus, the rector of Gullane, during the reign of Alexander II. a vicar was appointed by the monks of Dryburgh to serve the cure. In 12G8, there was assigned to the vicar of Gullane a stipend of 12 marks {f). In Bagi- mont's Roll, the vicarage of Gullane was rated at £4. In this parish there were of old no fewer than thi"ee chapels which were subordinate to the church. As early as the reign of William there was a chapel which was dedicated to St. Nicolas, on Fidra Isle, near the shore of Elbotle, and the ruins whereof still remain ((/). In the 12th century, the laird of Congalton founded a chapel for the use of his family and people. Disputes thereupon arose with the rector of Gullane ; and this controversy was settled, in 1224, to the satisfaction of both parties, by William, bishop of St. Andrews, the diocesan (Ji). During the reign of Alexander III., Alexander de Vallibus founded a chapel at Dirlton in honour of All Saints, engaging that this chapel should not derogate from the rights of the mother church of Gullane [i). Under James HI., an altar was dedicated to the Trinity in this church, by Sir Andrew Congalton, the patronage of which was given to the lord of the manor of Congalton {k). After the Reformation had swept away such establishments, James VI. seems to have given the advowson

(J) The nuns of Berwick made a composition with the rector of the church of Gullane, which left him three-fifths of the disputed property. Chart. Dryb., 28.

(c) lb., 26. {(1) lb., 16.

(e) lb., 19-21. The grant of Vaus was confirmed by his successors in the manor during the reigns of Alexander II. and Alexander III. lb., 18-182. The monks of Dryburgh, after all those con- firmations, acquired from the nuns of South Berwick the rights which they had obtained in the revenues of the church of Gullane. lb., 27.

(/) lb., 14. {g) lb., 18-185.

(Ji) Id. The place where it stood is still called Chapel.

(i) Chart. Dryb., 183-4. A stone of wax yearly was also granted to the church of Gullane by the same family, with two crofts, at the village of the canons of Dryburgh. lb., 23-4-5.

(k) Dougl. Bar., 522.

520 An ACCOUNT Ch. lY .—Haddingtmshire.

of the churcli of Gullane to the baron of Du-lton. In 1G12, the church was removed, under an act of parUament, from its ancient site to the village of Dirlton, which thus gave its name to the parish (/). [The parish ch. (1661-1825) has 412 communicants; stipend, £350. A Free church has 110 members. There is also an Episcopal mission under North Berwick with 60 members].

The parish of Aberlady obtained its Celtic appellation from the village of the same name, which stands at the influx of the West-PefFer into the Forth. In ancient charters, the name was written Aberlevedi and Aberleddie {m). The prefix is obviously the British Aher, signifying the injlux of running watei". As the Aher is uniformly prefixed, in the topography of Scotland, to the name of the stream whose mouth it denotes, we may easily suppose that the stream which glides into the Forth at Aberlady was anciently called Leddie (n). At present, the same stream is called above the West-Pefier water, and below from the name of the adjoining shore, Luffness w^ater. To such soft-flowing streamlets, the British people applied their term Leddie, which is peculiarly descriptive of this stream, as well as of other rivulets that glide with the gentlest motion to their issue. There appears to have been here in early times an establishment of the Culdees, and Kilspindie, the place of their settlement, near the village of Aberlady on the north-west, is supposed to have derived its name from the Culdees ; Cil-ys-pen-du signifying in the British speech, the cell of the black- heads; and the word is pronounced Kilyspendy. The cell of the Culdees near Aberlady was no doubt connected with the Culdee monastery of Dunkeld. When David I. established the bishopric of Dunkeld, he conferred on the bishop of this diocese Kilspindie and Aberlady, with their lands adjacent, the advowson of the churcli and its tithes and other rights (o). This con- stituted the ecclesiastical barony of Aberlady, over which the bishops of Dunkeld

(/) Unprinted Act, 21st Pari. James VI. The same Parliament ratified the infeftment of the lordship of Dirlton to Lord Fenton. Id. If we may believe Grose, the antiquary, who delighted in stories, the last vicar of Gullan; was expelled by James Yl. for smoaling tobacco. Antiq. Scot., i., 71. Grose does not tell who told him thii story. He has given a good view of the remains of the ancient church. Id. There is little in addition to be seen in the Stat. Acco., iii., 194 ; but the Tabular State subjoined may be inspected.

(n») Levedi is the old English form of lady,

(li) In fact, there is in Old Luce parish a stream which appears to run through a flat swamp, and is called Lady-hum. In Kirk Oswald there is a rivulet which is called Lady-havn, and which is said " to creep through a plain, for lialf a mile, before it enters the sea.''

(o) During the reign of William the Lion, Richard, the bishop of Dunkeld, granted to the canons of Dryburgh a croft in the village of Aberledie ; and the bishop's donation was confirmed by the king's charter. Chart. Dryb., 58.

Sect. YUI.—Its Ecclesiastical History.] 0 f N 0 E T H - B R I T A I N. 521

afterward obtained a regality [j)). The whole parish of Aberlady was included in the bishopric of Dunkeld, notwithstanding its local situation in the deaneiy of Haddington and the diocese of St. Andrews. Aberlady continued a mensal church of the bishops of Dunkeld till the Reformation, and the spiritual duties were performed by a vicar under the appointment of the bishop. In Bagimont's Roll, among the churches in the diocese of Dunkeld, there is Aherleddie in Eist-Lothian, which was rated at £5. Gavin. Douglas, the well- known bishop of Dunkeld, who died in 1522, granted the lands of Aberlady and Kilspindie to his half-brother, Archibald Douglas, the son of Archibald, the Earl of Angus, who will always be remembered as the principal assassin of the king's servants on Lauder-bridge {q). The forfeiture of Archibald Douglas was reversed, in March 1542-3, in the first parliament of the regent Arran ; and his son, Archibald, was restored incidentally to his father's estates of Aberlady and Kilspindie (r). The second Archibald Douglas was succeeded by his son Patrick, who built, in 1585, a fortalice at Kilspindie, which still remains. The bishop of Dunkeld resigned to the king, in 1589, the chiu'ch of Aberlady, with its teinds and pertinents, that he might convert it into a rectory, and give the advowson to Patrick Douglas as an independency of the diocese of Dunkeld. In pursuance of that obvious purpose, James VI. erected the whole into a barony by the appropriate name of Aberlady (s). From the Douglases this barony, with the patronage of the church of Aberlady, passed to the Fletchers during the reign of Charles II. Sir Andrew Fletcher obtained from the king a ratification of the bishop's resignation, and the king's charter was confirmed by the parliament of 1669 [t). In 1733 the barony, with the

( jj) The parisli of Aberlady contained in after times five baronies of small extent : Aberlady, Luff- ness, Balancrief, Gosford, and Redhouse. The greatest part of this last barony was disjoined from Aberlady, and annexed in 1695 to the parish of Gladsmuir.

(5) Archibald, the grantee of the bishop, his brother, seems to have been a servant of James V. during his early years ; and, marrying an opulent widow of Edinburgh, he became provost of this town in 1526, when his nephew, the Earl of Angus, obtained possession of the king's person and government. Pari. Rec,, 557-62. In September of the same year he was appointed treasui-er of Scot- land, and held this office till the king, by his own enterprise, freed himself from the domination of the Douglases, in 1528. lb., 566-73. In September, 1528, he was convicted of treason by Parliament, and forfeited, with his two nephews, the Earl of Angus and George Douglas. Pari. Rec, 579. The king refusing to pardon his forfeiture, he fled to France, where he died between the years 1534 and 1539. lb., 605 ; Rym., xiv., 538.

(r) Pari. Rec, 650. (.«) Trans. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 515.

{t) The Lord Gosford and other proprietors of the adjoining baronies protested against that Act in the next session of Parliament. Unprinted Acts of 1670.

522 An ACCOUNT [Ch. IV.— Haddingtonshire.

patronage of the church, was sold to -the Earl of Portmore, whose descendant now enjojs them. In 1695 the lands of Cotts, and a great part of the estate of Redhouse, were disjohied from Aberlady and annexed to the parish of Gladsmuir, which was then established. Subordinate to the mother church, there was a small chapel, the remains of which may still be traced at the north- west corner of the church yard. The parish of Aberlady is included within the commissariat of Dunkeld, owing to its ancient connection. The ancient church of Aberlady, which was mean and incommodious, was replaced in 1773 by a new place of parochial worship (u). [The number of communicants is 351, stipend, £503 ; a U.P. Church has 94 members].

The parish of Gladsmuir was formed, in 1695, by abstractions from the neighbouring parishes of Haddington, Aberlady, and Tranent. A parish church was then built on a ridge of moorland, which was known by the appropriate name of Gledesmuir, which gave its singular name to the whole parish. The glide in the Saxon, old English and Scottish languages, signified a kite (x) ; and muir is merely the Scottish form of the English moor. As the parishes of Haddington and Tranent contributed the largest portions to the formation of the parish of Gladsmuir, the patronage of the new church was agreed to belong, by turns, to the Earls of Haddington and Winton ; the former being patron of Haddington, and the latter of Tranent. The Earl of Haddingion's right was soon after transferred to the Earl of Hopetoun, whose grandson now enjoys it; and the Earl of Winton's right of patronage fell to the crown, in 1715, by forfeiture. In 1743 the Earl of Hopetoun did credit to his own sagacity by presenting to this parish for its minister, William Robertson, who rose by his various merits to the top of the Scottish literature, and to the head of the Scottish church. Gladsmuir was his first pi'eferment ; and it was in the quiet of the manse of Gladsmuir that his History of Scotland was written. Of this work, which has contributed to his country's fame, far be it from me by slight objections to lessen the dignity ; but of the writing of history, it may be observed as of the giving of laws, that it is not the best which ought to be offered to the people, but the best that the people are willing to receive. Such a history the author would not now propose to the public, nor would the public accept such a history from the author ; so great a change has the cultivation of the unweeded garden of Scottish history during fifty years, made

(») Trans. Antiq. Soc. Edin., i., 511. For other intimations, the Statistical Account and the Tabular State annexed may be inspected.

(x) See the Glossary to the late edition of Sir David Lindsay's Poetry, in art. Glead signifies a kite in Yorkshire. In the days of Ray, GUwl was used for a kite in England ;is well as in Scotland. In jElfric's Sax. Glossary, Mihus signified Glida. The Scripture word is Glede.

Sect Ylll.—Its Ecclesiastical Histori/.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 523

in the public knowledge. [The Parish Church, erected in 1850, has 526 communi- cants. Stipend £465].

From the village of Tranent the parish took its name, and the village is said to have acquired its appellation from a tradition which is not yet forgotten on the opposite shore of Fife, and which supposes that a party of Danes, once landing on that shore, were immediately repulsed by the natives, wdio exult- ingly shouted, Tranent ! Tranent ! The mere mention of such a tradition implies a total want of knowledge, etymological and historic. The name of the village is significant in the speech of the first colonists on the banks of the Forth. In the charters of the 12th, 13th, and 14th centuries, the name was written Travernent. The popular name of more recent times is Tranent, which seems to be contracted by colloquial use. Now, Trev-er-nent, in the British speech, signifies the habitation or village on the ravine or vale. Trenant, in the same language, signifies the habitation or village at the ravine or vale. Both those forms of the name are equally descriptive of the situation of Tranent on the eastern side of a deep, narrow valley or ravine, in the bottom of which there is a brook (//). The ancient manor and parish of Travernent appear to have been co-extensive. They comprehended as well the present parish of Tranent, except the barony of Seton, as the present parish of Prestonpans. Thor, the son of Swan, held the manor of Travernent during the reign of David I. Robert de Quincy acquired the same manor soon after the accession of William the Lion, whom he served for some time as justi- ciar}^ At the end of the 12th century, Robert was succeeded by his son, Seyer de Quincy, who became Earl of Winton, and died in 1219. The manor of Tranent now passed to his son, Roger de Quincy, the Earl of Winton, who acquired by marriage the office of constable of Scotland in 1234, and died in 1264. By this event the manor of Tranent was inherited by his three daughters, Margaret, who had married William de Ferrers, Ehzabeth, who had married Alexander Cumyn the Earl of Buchan, and Elena, who married Alan la Zouche, an English baron. The Earl of Buchan gave the share which fell to his wife, to Alexander the Stewart of Scotland, in exchange for the lands of Murthey, and James the Stewart, the sou of Alexander, granted this share in 1285 to William, the son of John de Preston. The portions of the other two daughters passed to their several sons,

{ij) There is in Cornwall a village called Trenant, which Hall explains to signify valley-town. Hall's Paroch. Hist. Cornwall, 89, and Pryco says it signifies a dwelling on the river. Archaeologia. The Tref. signifying a town in Davis and Richard's W. Diet., is Trev in Owen's Orthography. W. Diet. Nant in the British as well as the Cornish, signifies a ravine or valley., a hollow which is formed by water, a rivulet. Richard and Owen's W. Diet., and the Cambrian Re-r.. 17!).j.

524 An A C C 0 U N T [Ch. lY .—Haddmgtonshire.

William de Ferrers and Alan la Zouche, who lost them by forfeiture during the succession war, and those forfeitures were granted by Robert I. to his nephew, Alexander de Seton, in whose family they long remained (2). The patronage of the church of Tranent was separated from the manor before the demise of David I. Thorald, the son of Swan, then possessing the manor of Tranent, confirmed to the canons of Holyroodhouse the church of Tranent, reserving the right of Walleran, the chaplain, during his life (a). On liis death, probably Malcolm IV., in 1154, confirmed the church of Tranent to the canons " de castello Puellarum," that is of Holyroodhouse (b). The canons of this House enjoyed the church of Tranent, with its rights and revenues, till the Reformation introduced very different characters. In the ancient Taxatio, the church was rated at 65 marks, which imply that the church was of great value. The cure was served by a vicar, who enjoyed the small tithes. In Bagimont's Roll, the vicarage of Tranent was rated at £4 (c). In 1320 the monks of Newbotle made an agreement with Andrew, the perpetual vicar of Tranent, about the tithes of the village and the land, which was called the Cottarie of Preston {d). Such was the regimen which existed in this parish till the Reformation gave it a different system. [The present Parish Church, erected in 1801, and since then repaired, has 558 com- municants ; stipend, £440. A Free Church of 1843 has 154 members. A U.P. Church of 1826 has 130 members. There are also Primitive Methodist and Roman Catholic missions.]

The ancient parish of Seton was annexed to Tranent after the Reforma- tion. In old charters the name of the district and the appellation of the proprietors were written Sei/ton. Seyer de Saye, an Anglo-Norman, who obtained a grant of this manor, settling here, gave it the name of Say-ton ; and his descendants, who became Lords Setoun and Earls of Winton, assumed from it the surname of Seton. The church of Seton, however old, was I'ated in the ancient Taxatio at 1 8 marks. The patronage of the church belonged to the lords of the manor, the Setons, who were buried within its sacred fane. As it stood near their mansion-house, this opulent race were studious to adorn its structure and to add to its usefulness (e). In May 1544,

{z) Charters in the Eolls of Eobert I. Eoberts. Index.

(a) Sir J. Dalrymp. Col., 287. (i) Chron. St. Cnicis, in Anglia Sacra., i., 160.

(c) The vicarage of Tranent is in the Tax Eoll of the archbishopric of St. Andrews, 1547.

(d) Chart. Newbot., 156. This was confirmed by a bull of Pope John. lb., 258. For other notices, the reader may inspect the Statistical Account of this parish, and the Tabular State subjoined. [Also M'Neill's Tranent, 1884.]

(e) Old Sir Eichard Alaitlaud says, in his MS. History of this family, with whom he was connected, Catherine Sinclair, the wife of Sir William Setoun, who died at the beginning of the reign of Eobert

Sect. Yin.— Its Ecclesiastical Ilistorij.] 0 p N 0 E T H - B E I T A I N. 525

the English army after burning Leith came southward to Seton ; when they saved John Knox the trouble of spoiling the oi-naments and destroying this splendid monument of ancient piety (/). This church stood in Seton park, and contained many monuments to the several members of this respectable family, which at length fell a sacrifice to their mistaken principles [g). Their noble mansion was pulled down in 1770, when a new house was erected on its site. Within the parish of Seton at Longniddry there was a chapel, the ruins of which are still apparent, and is popularly called John Knox's kirk.

After the Reformation, the parish of Seton was annexed to that of Tranent, which was thus too much enlarged. But it was somewhat reduced in 1606 by making the baronies of Prestongrange and Prestonpans a new parish

III., " biggit an yle on the south side of the kirk, of fine astlar, pend it, and theikit it with stane, with an sepulchar therein, where she lies ; and foundit an priest to serve there perpetually. This lady, in her widowhood, dwelt, where now are the priests' chambers in Seton, [the collegiate canons] and planted. and made all their yard, that they have, yet, at this day ; and held an gret house, and an honourable." Her son. Sir John Setoun, who died in 1441, was buried in the aisle which his mother had built. Id. In 1493, George, Lord Setoun, as we have seen, converted this church into a collegiate form. He died in 1507, and was buried near the high altar of his collegiate church. Id. His son, George, Lord Seton, " theikit the queir of the church, with stane, and repaired the same, with glaising windows ; made the desks therein, and syllarings above the altar ; and pavementit the said queir ; and gave it certain vestments, a compleit stand of claith of gold, and others of silk." Id. This Lord George fell in Floddon-field, and was buried in the choir, which he had thus repaired and ornamented. Id. His widow, Janet, the daughter of Patrick, the first Earl of Bothwell, built the north aisle of the church of Seton, taking down the aisle which dame Catherine Sinclair had built on the south side, because the side of it stood to the side of the church ; and she thereby made a perfect cornet and cross-Hrk, and built the steeple to a great height. She gave this family church many ornaments. A complete stand of purple velvet, flowered with gold, a complete stand of white Camoise velvet, flowered with gold, a complete stand of white dameis, a complete stand of shamlet of silk, a complete stand of black double worset, with certain other chesabils and vestments of sundry silks ; she .ilso gave to this church a great case of silver, an euoharist of silver, a chalice over-gilt, a pendicle to the high altar of fine wove arras, with other pendicles ; she loosed the sachristry, and made great locked almries [cupboards or presses] therein ; she founded two prebends, and built their chambers and vaults. Thus far Sir Eichard Maitland's MS. History of the Setoun family. It is seldom that we are supplied with such a minute account of the ornaments belonging to a collegiate church.

(/) Sir Eichard Maitland, who lived in the neighbourhond at the time, says, that the Euflish destroyed the castle of Seton, spoiled the kirk, took :iway the hells, organs, and all other trussable [moveable] things, and put them in their ships, lying off in the frith, and burnt the timber-work in the church. MS. Hist, of the Setouns.

{g) Of the collegiate church of Seton there is a good view in Grose's Scots Antiq., i., 64, where it has been mistakingly placed in Edinburghshire. [See also Billing's Antiquities, v. 4, and M'NeiU's Tranent.]

4 3X

526 AnACCOUNT [Cli. l\ .—Haddimjtonshire.

under the name of Preston {Ji). When Charles I. in an unadvised hour erected the bishopric of Edinburgh, he granted to the bishop the church of Tranent with the mansion, glebe, church-lands, titlies, and other ecclesiastical dues, as they had belonged previously to tlie abbey of Holyrood ; and the parson of Tranent was constituted one of the prebendaries of the bishop's chapter (i). Meantime, the Earls of Winton, who were the patrons of the old church of Seton, obtained the patronage of the united pai-ishes of Tranent and Seton (k). Tiie lands of Winton were, however, restored to Pencaithland parish after the forfeiture of the Earl in 1715. In 1695, the parish of Tranent was further diminished by the annexation of the north-east corner of it to the new parish of Gladsmuir; and the Earl of Winton, as jDatron of Tranent, obtained the patron- age of the newly erected jjarish of Gladsmuir. The Earl of Winton's patronages were forfeited to the king by the attainder of the last earl [I). [The chapel of Seton was restored by the Earl of Wemyss some years ago, and is now used as a mausoleum.]

The parish of Prestonpans is modern. It was created in 1606 by the parliament of Perth, by dismembering the parish of Tranent, and by endow- ing a newly erected church in Preston (m). Yet though the church, as we

(/i) Unprinted Acts, 18 Pari., Ja. VI.

(j) Charter of Erection, 29th September, 1633. This establishment was subverted in 1611, was restored in 1662, and was abolished for ever in 1689.

(^-) In 1681, the parliament passed an act in favour of the Earl of Winton, disjoining his lands of Winton from the parish of Pencaithland, and annexing them to the parish of Tranent. Unprinted Act, 1 sess., 3 pari., Car. II.

(/) For some other particulars of the parish of Tranent, see the Stat. Acco., x., 83, and the Tabular State annexed.

(ill) The history of the erection of this new parish is given in the preamble of the act of parliament erecting it. Unprinted Act, 18 Pari., Ja. VI. The parliament recited : That considering the inhabitants of Preston and of Prestonpans, sometime within the parish of Tranent, cannot resort to the kirk of Tranent, it being insufficient to contain them, they being numerous and daily increasing, and being too far from them ; and considering that by the labour, pains, and expence of Mr. John David- son, minister, a suflScient kirk with a manse are built in Prestonpans, and that there is a glebe provided for the same kirk by George Hamilton of Preston, out of his own proper heritage, and that the same Mr. John Davidson had founded in Prestonpans a school for teaching the Latin, Greek, and Hebrew languages, and for instructing youth in virtue and learning, and that he has endowed the same with, his heritage, and all his moveable and free goods, for a perpetual stipend to the same school : The Estates, therefore, erected the said newly built kirk into a parish kirk, which was to be called the parish kirk of Preston, and dismembered the same from the parish kirk of Tranent ; and they ratified the foundation of the said school, with all the infeftments, donations, and amortizations of lands, rents, and other revenues, which had been thus given by the laird of Preston and the late Mr. John David- son to the ministers, serving the cure at the said newly erected kirk and the masters of the same school, and their successors, in their several faculties.

Sect. YUl.~Its Ecclesiastical Ilistorij.} OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 527

have thus seen, was built at Prestonpans, and the parish was to be called Preston, popular usage has over-ruled the parliament in calling this parish Prestonpans. It comprehends the two baronies of Preston and Prestongrange, which are commonly called the east and west baronies (n). Preston derived its name from the Saxon P rest -tun, signifying the priest's town or habitation. There are many places of the same name, both in North and South Britain. Prestongrange and Prestonpans are derivations from the original name ; the former from the grange which the monks of Newbotle settled there, as we have seen, and the latter from the salt pans which were established on that site (o). [The parish church was erected in 1595, and repaired in 1774. Communicants, 478 ; stipend, £543. A Free Church erected in 1878 has 234 members.]

The parish of Pencaitland is ancient. In charters of the 12th, 13th, and 14th centuries the name of the district was written Pencathlan, Pencaithlan, and Pencathlen ; and it is probably derived from the British Pen-caetli-lan, signify- ing the end of the narrow plot of ground or enclosure. The church and mansion-house of Pencaitland stand on the edge of a narrow flat or meadow^ on the northern bank of the Tyne ; and the village of West Pencaitland is situated on the edge of a high bank on the south side of the same river. During the reign of William the Lion the manor of Pencaitland was possessed by Everard de Pencaithlan, who assumed a surname from his place. He pro- bably obtained the lands of Pencaitland from William, for Everard granted to the monks of Kelso the church of his manor of Pencaitland, with the tithes and other rights belonging to it, in pure alms, for the salvation of his lord, King William (^p). In the ancient Taxatio the church of Pencaitlan was rated at 40 marks. Before the accession of Robert Bruce the church of Pencaitlan

(n) The barony of Preston, including Prestonpans, was long the property of the Hamiltons of Preston. George Hamilton, who was the proprietor of Preston when this parish was erected, was succeeded by Sir John Hamilton of Preston, who in 1617 obtained from James VI. a charter, erecting Preston and Prestongrange into a burgh of barony, with the usual privileges. In 1647 Thomas Hamilton of Preston was retoured heir of entail and provision of the late John Hamilton of Preston, " nepotis sui patris." Thomas enjoyed this biironj ior some time after the Restoration. It was sold in 1704 by Sir William Hamilton of Preston to Doctor James Oswald, who also purchased from him Fingalton, the family estate of the Hamiltons, in Lanarkshire. At Preston there is the ruin of a tower, in which the Hamiltons resided. It was accidentally burnt in 1663 ; and some years afterwards Preston House was erected, which, by the will of the late proprietor, James Shaw, was in 1784 converted into a hospital for maintaining and educating twenty-four boys.

(o) For other particulars, see the Stat. Acco., xvii., 61, and the Tabular Sfiite annexed.

(;?) Chart. Kelso, 307 ; and this grant was confiimed by the same king. lb., 13-387. It was also confirmed by Roger, the bishop of St. Andrews. lb., 82.

528 An ACCOUNT ICh. lY .—Haddingtonshire.

had ceased to belong to the monks of Kelso, owing to whatever cause (q). The manor of Pencaitland, with the lands of Nisbet, were forfeited, during the succession war, by Thomas de Pencaitland, the descendant of Everard ; and it was granted by Robert Bruce to Robert de Lauder for his homage and service (r). This manor appeared soon after to belong to John de Maxwell of Pencaitland, the younger brother of Sir Eustace Maxwell of Caerlaverock ; but whether John acquired it by grant or by marriage cannot be easily ascertained. He certainly granted to the monks of Dr3^burgh an annuity from his lands of Pencaitland ; and his grant was confirmed by David II. (s). He granted to the same monks the advowson of the parish church of Pencaitland, with the chapel of Payston, and the church lands, tithes, and profits (t). This grant was confirmed by Sir John Maxwell, his son, who succeeded his father in the lands of Pencaitland, and his uncle, Sir Eustace, in the family estate of Caerlavei'ock (u). It was also confirmed by William, the bishop of St. Andrews, and by William, the prior, in 1343 {x) ; and it was further confirmed by David II. in 134G {y) The church of Pencaitland, with the chapel of Pay- ston, remained with the canons of Dryburgh till the Reformation. The cure was served by a vicar. In Bagimont's Roll the vicarage of Pencaitland was rated at £2 13s. 4d. After the Reformation, the lands of Paystoun, com- prehending the hamlets of East Payston, West Payston, Payston Bank, and Payston Mill were disjoined from the parish of Pencaitland, and annexed to

(q) It appears not among tlie churches which belonged to those monks, between the years 1309 and 1316. Chart. Kelso.

(;•) Eegist. Eob. I. Eot. Car., 55. ($) Eoberts, Index, 38.

(<) The lands of Payston, which is vulgarised to Peasetoun, upon which the chapel stood, formed the southern extremity of the parish of Pencaitland. After the Eeformation, they were disjoined from it, and annexed to the smaller parish of Ormiston, which adjoins Pencaitland on the west.

(u) In his charter he calls himself the son of the late John de Maxwell, and the heir of Eustace de Maxwell, his (John's) brother. Crawfurd's MS. Gleanings, 3G4. Douglas has mistakingly made them the son and grandson, in place of the brother and nephew of Eustace de Maxwell, who seems not to have had any son. Peerage, 516. During the reign of Eobert II. John Maitland of Thirlstane held some lands in Pencaitland, under Sir Eobert Maxwell, the son of the last John ; and Sir Eobert granted the superiority of the same lands to the canons of Dryburgh.

(j;) The bishop's charter, which is recited in that of the prior, states that the patronage of the church of the Pencaitland, and of the chapel of Payston, were granted to those canons by John de Maxwell of Pencaitland, and Dominus John de Maxwell, Dominus de Maxwell. Crawfurd's MS. Gleanings, 359.

(y) lb., 359, 364-5.

Sect. Yin.— Its Ecclesiastical History.] OfNORTH-BEITAIN. 529

Ormiston, which adjoins it on the west. In 1681 the lands of AVinton were taken from the parish of Pencaitland and given to the parish of Tranent (a). In 1673 died Robert Douglas, the indulged preacher of Pencaitland, who had been minister of Edinburgh, a person of piety, judgment, and leai-ning : " No man, it is said, contributed moi'e to the Restoration and received less benefit from it (h). But if he had been a minister of solid judgment and good learning he would have pushed aside the j^rejudice that prompted him to reject the bishopric which was offered to his prudence. [The Parish Church, a six- teenth century building, was i-estored in 1882; communicants, 301, stipend, £309. A Free Church mission has 91 members].

The parish of Salton derived its appellation from the manor-place and village of the same name. In ancient charters this designation was written Saidtoun, Saidton, and Salton. As the prefix lias no descriptive meaning, the place may be supposed to have obtained its name from some settler here of the name of Smd, who cannot now be traced, whose tun or dwelling it may have been (c). During the reign of David I. the manor of Salton belonged to Hugh Morville, tlie constable, who granted the church of Salton with a carucate of land and the tenth of the multure of the mill of Salton to Dryburgh Abbey. The liberality of Hugh was approved by Malcolm IV., and by Richard, the son, and successor of the constable (d). The church of Salton was rated in the ancient Taxatio at 30 marks. Richard Morville gave the lands of Herdmanston, which formed a part of the manor of Salton, to Henry de Saint Clair, the sheriff" of the Morvilles (e). Henry de Saint Clair was the progenitor of the Sinclairs of Herdmanston, who retained this estate till recent times. In the 1 otii century John de Saint Clair erected a chapel at Herdmanston by the leave of the canons of Dryburgli, to whom he granted two acres of land, with an indemnity that his chapel should not injure the mother church of Salton (/). There were other vassals of the Morevilles and their successors, the Lords of Galloway,

(a) UEprinted Act in favour of the Earl of Winton. After the forfeiture of tlie Earl's descendant in 1715, Winton was again annexed to the parish of Pencaitland, to which it naturally belongs.

(b) Lauchlan Shaw's MS. Hist, of the Scotican Church. See the Stat. Acco., xvii., 41, and the Tabular Stale annexed.

(c) Sir James Dalrymple says this manor obtained its name from the family of Soiilis, as he had seen an old charter designing it Soulis-toun. Collect., 395. Yet has this mistaken intimation misled Lord Hailes (Annals, i., 274) and the minister of the parish. Stat. Acco., s., 251. Sir James wrote this account of Salton from memory, which deceived him ; for various documents in succession show that during the 12th, loth, and 14th centuries the family of Soulis never possessed Salton, which was never called Soulistown.

{d) Chart. Dryburgh, 1-2. (e) Diplom. Scotiso, pi. 75. (/) Chart. Dryburgh, 143-

530 AnACCOUNT [Cli. V7 .—Haddingtonshire.

during the 12th and 13th centuries who made similar grants {g). The superiority of the manor of Salton was forfeited by the descendants of the Lords of Galloway during the succession war. In the reign of Alexander III. a considerable part of the manor of Salton was held by WiUiam de Abernethy, the son of Sir Patrick Abernethy of Abernethy. William supported the pre- tensions of Bruce, to whom he became tenant in chief, by the forfeiture of his superiors who adhered to the Baliols, and he obtained from the gratitude of Bruce a large addition to his lands for his support. William de Abernethy was the progenitor of a family who acquired the title of Lord Salton in 1455 (A). During the year 1488 the canons of Dryburgh pursued in Parlia- ment Adam Bell for withholding thek tithes of Salton ; but when Bell vouched the vicar, Dene Dewar, who had given him a lease of his ecclesiastical dues, the Lords recommended to the abbot of Dryburgh to summon the Dene before his spiritual judge {i). The canons of Dryburgh continued, with such slight interruptions, to enjoy the church of Salton till the Eeformation swept such establishments away. In 1633 when the bishopric of Edinburgh was erected, the church of Salton with its manse, glebe, and ecclesiastical rights, were transferred to the bishop {k). When the estate of Salton was acquu'ed in 1643 by Sir Andrew Fletcher from Lord Abernethy, the advowson of the church was incidentally obtained; and in 1672 the Parliament confinned to the well-known Andrew Fletcher, at the age of nineteen, the estate of Salton with its pertinents (/). At the Restoration the cure of Salton was served by Patrick Scougal, the celebi'ated Bishop of Aberdeen. He was succeeded in the parish of Salton by Gilbert Burnet, a not less famous though not a better man, who acquired in 1665 his first preferment in the church from Sir Robert Fletcher, the patron of Salton [m). We have now seen that eminent

{g) See the Chart, of Dryburgh, and Soltre, throughout.

(li) Williara de Abernethy of Salton granted to the canons of Dryburgh a messuage, with a brewhouse, "in villa de Sultoun." Chart. Dryb., 191. Upon the death of Alexander, Lord Abernethy of Salton, in 1669, without issue, his estates and title descended to his cousin, Alexander Fraser of Philorth, the son of Margaret Abernethy, the only daughter of George Lord Salton. Crawfurd's Peer., 435.

(i") Pari. Eec, 343-53. (Jc) Charter of Erection.

(/) Un printed Act, 3rd sess., 2nd Pari, Charles II.

{lit) When Bishop Burnet died, in 1715, aged 72, he left some legacies to the parish of Salton, which have proved lastingly beneficial to the parishioners. He devised 20,000 marks Scots, the interest whereof was directed to be applied to the clothing and educating of 30 children, to the providing of them with apprentice fees, to the relieving of the indigent, and to the obtaining of a parish library. By the judicious management of the trustees, this legacy has increased to £2,000

Sect. Ylll.—rts Ecclesiastical Histori/.] OpNORTH-BRITAIN. 531

men have been connected with Salton parish from the epoch of record, beginning with the Morvilles and ending with the Fletchers, who all distinguished them- selves by their actions, according to the prevailing sentiments of their several ages, whether of piety or patriotism (n). [The parish church was greatly re- novated in 1805, and has 117 communicants. Stipend £323. A Free church for Salton and Bolton has 99 members.]

The parish of Bolton took its name from the village, and the name of the hamlet is certainly Saxon. Bolt, in the A.-S. speech, signifies a mansion. This term may have been applied to the manor-house ; and when a village collected around it, according to the practice of the age, the hamlet may have been called Bolt-town. It is possible, indeed, that a person named Bolt may have settled here and given his own name to his settlement or tun (o). Early in the reign of William the Lion, the rnanor of Bolton was granted by the king to William de Vetereponte, the son of an English Baron of the same name, who was popu- larly called Vipont. He also acquired from the same king the manors of Langton in Berwicksliire, and Carriden in West-Lothian (^;>). William de Vetereponte granted the church of Bolton with its lands, tithes, and pertinents, to the canons of Holyrood ; and this gift was confirmed by a charter of William the Lion (q). The church of Bolton I'emained in the hands of the canons of Holyrood till the Reformation. In the ancient Taxatio, the church of Bolton was rated at the inconsiderable value of 20 marks. Robert I. confirmed all those grants to the Viponts, and they were all confirmed to the same family by David II. (r). Bolton passed afterward to other proprietors. In the reign of James II., it belonged to George Lord Haliburton of Dirlton, who pledged it to the king for a debt of of 100 marks ; and upon redeeming it, he obtained in

sterling, and the bishop's bequest has completely answered his beneficent purpose. He also bequeathed a capital, affording a yearly interest of 150 marks Scots, for the poor of Salton parish, to be distributed by the minister. By all those bequests, which do honour to the sense and benevolence of Bishop Burnet, the children of Salton are well educated, and the poor properly supported. Stat. Acco., x., 256-7. Close to the minister's manse, there is a tree which is called " Bishop Burnet's Tree." Forrest's map of Haddingtonshire will thus prove a monument to the bishop's memory, if his good deeds should be forgotten.

()i) The parish church and manse stand at the village of East-Salton, which, in 1792, contained 281 inhabitants. The village of East-Salton, at the same time, contained 127 inhabitants. Stat. Acco., X., 253, which may be inspected for other particulars ; and see the Tabular State annexed.

(o) Near Kinross there is a hamlet called Bolton, and there are in England many places of the same name.

(])) Those manors were all confirmed to him by William the Lion, between the years 1171 and 1178.

(q) Crawfurd's MS. Copy from the Autograph. (r) Eeg. David II., lib. i., 137.

532 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. lY.— Haddingtonshire.

1459, from the same king, a confirmation of liis inheritance (s). In 1494, there was a continued suit in parliament b}'^ Marion, the lady of Bolton, and George Home her husband, against Patrick Earl of Bothwell, and Adam Hepburn his brother, for detaining violently, durmg seven years, the barony of Bolton with its pertinents. The lady produced as her right a charter from the late heir. The earl gave in a lease from a stranger, and Bothwell, who was at that epoch all-powerful, appears to have retained the disputed property {t). In 1526, and 1543, Bolton was in possession of a cadet of his family, by the name of Hepburn of Bolton (it). In January 1568, John Hepburn of Bolton was executed as the associate of the Earl of Bothwell, his chief, in the murder of Darnley (x). The manor of Bolton, thus forfeited, was given to William Maitland, the well-known Secretary Lethington, the author of the plot which ended in the death of Darnley (y). It was confirmed to the Earl of Lauderdale in 1621 (z). In 1633, the epoch of the episcopate of Edinburgh, the church of Bolton with its usual pertinents, as they had belonged to the canons of Holyrood, were annexed to the newly created bishopric, which was itself subverted in 1641. Such, then, are the various revolutions of the manor and church of Bolton (a). [The present parish church erected in 1809, has 96 communicants. Stipend £192.]

The parish of HuMBiE comprehends the ancient districts of Keith-Hundeby and Keith-Marshall. At the epoch of record, Keith appears to have been the ancient name of the whole district, which is intersected by a small river that runs in a narrow bottom between steep banks. The name of Keith is obviously derived from the British Caeth, signifying strait, confined, narrow ; and was appropriately applied to the narrow bottom through which the riveret runs, as well as to other places that bear the same name in Scotland from similar circumstances (6). From David I., Hervei, the son of Warin, obtained a grant

(.s) Dougl. Peer., 322, who quotes the charter in the Pub. Archives.

(t) Pari. Eec, 446. (u) lb., 563-4.

(x) Spots., 214 ; Arnot's Crim. Trials, 9. (y) Stat. Acco., iv., 287.

{:) Unprinted Act, 23rd pari., Ja. VI., 4th August, 1621. The famous Duke of Lauderdale, while lie acted with the insurgent covenanters, appears to have annexed the patronage of the church of Bolton to the manor. Eichard, Earl of Lauderdale, who died about the year 1693, sold the barony of Bolton, with the patronage of the church, and even the ancient inheritance of Lethington, to Sir Thomas Levingston ; and Sir Thomas transferred the whole to Walter, Lord Blantyre, in whose family the property remains.

(ffl) The curious reader will be disappointed if he look into the Stat. Acco., iv., 285, for any additional history of this parish. He may inspect the Tidmlar State annexed.

(b) Keith, in Banffshire, stands in a ccnfned hollow on the river Isla, which runs, for a con-

SectYlll— Its Ecclesiastical Tmtori/.] OpNORTH-BEITAIN. 533

of the north-west half of this district, which was called from him Keith-Hervey, and which was afterward called Keith-Marshall. From the same king, Simon Fraser acquired a grant of the south-east half of the same district, which was denominated from him Keith- Symon, and which was afterward called Keith Hundeby. As the church stood within the district of Keith-Symon, Hervey erected a chapel in his own manor of Keith-Hervey, for the accommodation of his tenants ; and, according to the established custom, settled an yearly tribute to the mother church (c). Simon Fraser granted to the monks of Kelso the church of Keith, with its pertinents and other privileges {d). During those times Hervey de Keith, the king's marshal, had a controversy with those monks about the tribute which he ought to pay to them for his chapel of Keith- Hervey. This pertinacious contest was settled by Joceline, the bishop of Glasgow, and Osbert, the abbot of Paisley, who decided that the monks ought to receive only twenty shillings annually from the chapel and manor of Keith- Hervey ; and this determination was confirmed by the diocesan, Richard, the bishop of St. Andrews, who died in 1177 (e). Simon Fraser's estate was car- ried by his daughter Eda to Hugh Lorens, her husband ; and their daughter Eda transferred the same property to Philip de Keith, the marshal. By those two female transmissions the whole manor of Keith was united in one family. Philip, who died some time before the year 1220, confirmed the church of Keith, with its pertinents, to the monks of Kelso {/). During the reign of Alexander II. the manor of Keith -Hervey-Marshal was made a distinct parish, with its chapel, for the seperate church, that was thenceforth to be independent of the church of Keith-Symon, which was at length distinguished by the name of Keith-Hundeby (g). In the ancient Taxatio, the church of Keith-Hundeby was i-ated at 80 marks, while the church of Keith-Marshal was

^derable distance above, in a narrow ravine, between steep lianlcs. A part of the river Ericht. in Pertbsliire, where it runs through a narrow chasm, between steep rocks, and forms a cascade, is called the Keith.

(c) Chart. Kelso.

{d) lb., 84-07. This grant was confirmed by a charier of Malcolm IV. lb., 89-37C, and by William the Lion. lb., 13-90.

(e) lb., 94-6. The bishops Hugh and Eoger, of the same see, confirmed to the monks of Kelso the church of Keith, with the twenty shillings as the allowance from the chapel of Keith Hervey. lb., 82-3.

(/) lb., 86-8.

(g) The adjunct Hundeby was the name of a hamlet near the church. This appellation, which is plainly derived from the Saxon Huadehij, the dog's dwelling, has been vulgarised to Ilaiubie. There are a Haa-hij in Durham, and a Hun-bij by Lincolnshire. 4 3 Y

534 AnACCOUNT [Ch. lY.— Haddingtonshire.

only rated at 12 marks. When tlie monks of Kelso estimated tlieir whole estate, during the reign of Piohert Bruce, they stated that they enjoyed the church of Hundeby-Keith, " in rectoria," which used to he worth £20 a-year ; and they had incidentally, the village and lands of Hundehy-Keith, which customably rented for 10 marks a-year (/*). In Bagimont's Roll, indeed, the rectory of Keith-Marshall was rated at £4 ; but the rectory of Keith-Hundeby was not rated in that Roll, as it belonged to the monks of Kelso, who con- tinued to enjoy it till the Reformation swept away such exemptions. The patronage of the church of Keith- Marshall belonged to the descendants of Sir Robert Keith, by the grant of Robert Bruce, till their whole property here was sold by Wilham, Eax"l Marshal, during the perturbations of Charles I.'s reign, which involved him and his country in inextricable difficulties. After the Reformation, the ancient parishes of Keith-Hundeby and Keith-Marshall were conjoined ; and the united parish has been since known by the name of Hiimbie, the patronage of which belongs, jointly, to the King and the Earl of Hopetoun (i). [The parish church, erected in 1800, has 208 communicants; stipend £365. A. Free church has 57 members].

The old name of the parish of Yester was Bothans, till the Marquis of Tweeddale built his present house, which he called Yester, the baronial name of the extensive domains of the Giffords {k). William the Lion, granted to Hugh de Giffbrd the lands of Yestred, who gave to the monks of Melrose a toft, in his village of Yestred, The baronial domains of Yester lie along the vale of a rivulet which is formed from several streamlets, which fall down from the western declivities of the Lammermuir. In this vale or strath, on the west bank of the water, stands Yester house, the sj)lendid seat of the Marquis of Tweeddale ; and the locahties and the facts evince the British origin of the name to have been Ystrad, signifying a vale or strath, in the speech of the Ottadini settlers on the stream, which has lost its original name, in colloquial

(h) Chart. Kelso, 26-32. Sir Eobert Keith, the marshal of Eobert Bruce, granted those monks leave to build a mill on their lands of Hundeby Keith, with permission for their work oxen, with their carts and ploughs, to pass and repass over his manor. lb., 99.

(i) The Stat. Acco. and the Tabular State subjoined to this shire may be inspected for some other particulars.

(i) la the ancient Taxatio there is ecclesia Bothani. In Bagimont's Roll there is Prceceptura de Bothans ; so in the roll of St. Andrews 1547, there was, in the deanery of Dunbar, Pra:positura de Bothans. Eeliq. Divi. Andrese. The 18th of January was the festival of Bothan, as we know from Dempster. As late as 1521, Robert Wetherstone, the provost of Bothans, granted to a chaplain in the parish church of Haddington several parcels of land in Mortmain. MS. Extracts from the Records.

Sect. YllL—Tts Ecclesiastical Historij.'] OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 635

corruptions {!). The patronage of the church has belonged to the lords of the manor of Yestred from the 12th century to the present (m). This manor was granted by William the Lion, to Hugh Gifford. the son of Hugh, an English gentleman who settled in Lothian under David I. From that early age to the present Yester has remained with his descendants. Hugh Gifford of Tester, who lived under David IL and Robert IL, had only four daughters to inherit his large estates ; and Johanna, the eldest, marrying Sir William Hay of Locherwart, transferred the manor , with the patronage of the church, to him and their conjoint posterity. Thus arose the family of Yester and Locherwart, who obtained the titles of Lord Yester in 1488, Earl of Tweeddale in 1646, and Marquis of Tweeddale in 1694. Sir William Hay, in 1421, converted the church of St. Bothan Into a collegiate form, consistinsf of a provost, six prebendai'ies, and two singing boys, who enjoyed the lands, tithes, and other church revenues of the parish till the Reformation introduced a very different system. The church now lost its collegiate form ; the name of Saint Bothan was no longer reverenced, and the ancient name of Yester, which was not understood, became again the Cambro-British name, of the parish. A new parish church and manse were built in 1708, in a less central place, at the village of Gifford ; and the ancient church of St. Bothan, with its adjacent kirk-town, were resigned to the a.nnihilation of time and chance. From the village, where the modern church stands, the parish is now popularly called Gifford, while the legal name is Yester (?i). There was of old, at Duncanlaw, in the north-east corner of Yester parish, a chapel, which was dedicated to Saint Nicholas, Avhich has also been swept away by modern improvements (o). [The parish church has 306 communicants ; stipend £455. A Free church erected in 1880 has 154 members].

The united parish of Garvald and Barra comprehends the separate parishes of the same names. Garvald derived its Celtic appellation from the rivulet, which is called Garvald water, as it drains the parish, and courses by the church and village of Garvald. Garw-ald in the British, and Garv-ald

(/) See Eichard's Welsh Diet.

(?;») The church of St. Bothan appears to have been but of middling value, for it was rated in the ancient Taxatio at 30 marks.

(/() The village of Gifford did not exist when Pont made his map of the Lothians during the reign of Charles I. It has since arisen on the east bank of Gifford Water, in the lower end of the parish, and now contains more than 400 people. For other particulars, see the Stat. Acco., i., 342, and the Tabular State annexed.

(o) Eobert III. gave to the chapel of St. Nicholas, at Duncanlaw, some lands which had belonged to John Straton. Eoberts. Index, 145. Duncanlaw belonged to the Giffords of old. lb., 16.

536 A N A C C 0 U N T [Oh. \Y .—Haddimjtmishive. '

[Garbh-ald] in the Gaelic, signify the rough rivulet, which is very descriptive of a mountain torrent which floods its banks and spreads gravel over the adjacent grounds ; and there are other streams of similar qualities in North- Britain, which have obtained the same name of Garv-ald ; and several have retained their ancient names in the more idiomatical form of Ald-garv. The church of Garvald, with its pertinents, and a carucate of land adjacent, were granted to the Cistercian nuns, which the Countess Ada settled near Haddington during the reign of Malcolm IV. They established a grange near the church, and fonned a village, which thus obtained the name of Nun-raw. They also acquired the lands of Slade and Snowdoun, forming together almost the whole parish. They obtained, in May 1359, from their diocesan, William the bishop of St. Andrews, a confirmation of all their spiritual rights as they had lost their title-deeds during the revolutionary war of David II. ; and the bishop's charter was confirmed by James II., in August 1458 {p). The church of Garvald and the greatest part of the parish remained with those opulent nuns tiU the Reformation delivered the whole to less beneficent hands. As the parish was not populous of old, the church was merely rated in the ancient Taxatio at 15 marks. The name of Barra is obviously Celtic. In the Gaelic, Bar signifies a height, a summit, and Ra' a fortlet, a strength of any kind. The old church, mansion, and village of Barra, stand on the summit of a ridge, which slopes to the south and north. In the British speech, Barrau, the plural of Bar, signifies a bush, a bunch, a tuft {q). The Celtic name may have been originally imposed by the British, and continued by the Gaelic settlers of subsequent times, from observing the fitness of the name to the thing signified. In the ancient Taxatio, the church of Barra was rated at 25 marks, which implies more population and improvement than those of Garvald. William, the parson of Barra, swore fealty to Edward I. on the 29th of August 1296, and obtained a return of his rights (r). In the 12th and 13th centuries, the patronage of the church of Barra belonged to the lords of the manor. At the beginning of the 13th century, Thomas de Morham, who possessed both the adjoining manors of Barra and Morham, granted to the monks of Holy- roodhouse the patronage of the church of Barra, with the pertments. This grant was confii-med by his heiress, Euphemia, who man-led Sir John Gifford of Yester, and who carried the manors of Morham and Barra into the family of Giftbrd ; and the son and heir of Euphemia, respecting her liberahty, con-

(p) MS. Monast. Scotiae, 11. (</) Owen's Diet., in vo. Bar.

(r) Prj'nne, iii., 657 ; Eym., ii., 725.

Sect. Vm.—Its Ecclesiastical History.] OpNOETH-BRITAIN. 537

firmed her grant (s). The monks of Holyroodhouse enjoyed the patronage and the pertinents of the church of Barra till the Reformation introduced a difierent system, though the commendator for some time enjoyed the rights of the church of Bai'ra without performing the duties. The church of Barra, and all its rights, were granted to the newly erected bishopric of Edinburgh in 1633. When this establishment fell, amidst the revolutions of subsequent times, the Hays of Yester and Tweeddale, who represented the ancient Giffords and Morhams, acquired the patronage of the chvu'ch of Barra. The parishes of Garvald and Barra were united in 1702 ; and the patronage of the con- joined churches belongs jointly to the King and the Marquis of Tweeddale, who enjoyed the advowsons of the separate parishes. The minister was required, by the annexation, to preach alternately in the two parish churches, till the year 1744, when the church of Barra became quite unfit for divine service; and the church of Garvald has been made, by reparation, to serve every purpose of an extensive parish, though not without some inconvenience (t). [The parish church was enlarged in 1829. Communicants, 251 ; stipend, £276. A Free Church has 130 members.]

MoRiiAM parish, which is the smallest in Haddingtonshire, derived its name from the Saxon Mor-ham, the dwelling on the moor. Till recent times the parish was appropriately called Movhsim-moor. After all that improvement has gained from the waste, enough remains to justify the ancient appellation of Moor-ham. The church of Morham is old, and it was valued in the ancient Taxatio at 20 marks, which imply more people and products than were naturally to have been expected from the sterility of the soil. The rectoiy of Morham was rated in Bagimont's Boll at £4. The patronage of the church has always belonged to the lord of the manor. Under William the Lion, this manor was enjoyed by a family bearing the name of Malherh, who assumed from the lands the more known name of Morham (ii). The Morhams continued to enjoy it throughout the 13th century {x). The fiunily of Sir Thomas Morham ended in a female heir, Euphemia, who carried the manor and the patronage of the church to Sir John Gifford {y). From his family the pro- perty went, by another female transmission, to the Hays of Locherwart, and in recent times the lands of Morham, with the patronage of the church, were acquired by the Dalrymples of Hailes ; and they belonged to the late Sir David

(s) Sir James Dalrymple's Coll., xxsviii.

(<) For other particulars, the more curious reader may consult the Stat. Aoco., xiii., 353, and the Tabular State subjoined. (u) Chart. Newbotle. (.r) lb., 90-113.

(y) Sir James Dalrymple's Coll., xxxviii. The ancient fortalice of Morham stood on an eminence near the church, whereof not a vestige remains. Stat. Aeco., ii., 334.

538 An ACCOUNT [Gh. TV. —Haddingtonshire.

Daliyraple, Lord Hailes, whose daughter now enjoys them (z). [The parish church was erected in 1724. Communicants, 87 ; stipend, £234.] Tliis much, tlien, with regard to the several parishes in the presbytery of Haddington. The presbytery of Dunhar will be found to comprehend eight parishes in Haddingtonshire, and one in Berwickshire. The parish of Dunbar took its Celtic name from the town ; and the town obtained its designation from the fortlet on the rock, which at this place projects into the sea. Dun-har in the British, and Dun-har in the Gaelic, signify the fort on the height, top, or extremity ; but ought not to be rendered according to the late Lord Hailes' translation, into the English top-cliff. The parish of Dunbar was of old the most valuable of any in the deanery of Lothian, or indeed within the diocese of St. Andrews. Besides the pi-esent parish, it contained the parochial districts of Whittinghame, Stenton, and Spott, which were ancient chapelries, that were subordinate to the mother church at Dunbar. In the ancient Taxatio the church of Dunbar, with the chapel of Whittinghame, were valued at 180 marks, which is a greater valuation than any other church in Scotland could bear. In this most extensive parish there were of old no fewer than six chapels, which were all subordinate, according to the ecclesiastical system of those times, to the mother church (a). From the earliest times of which we have any accurate account, the Earls of Dunbar were proprietors of the whole parish, and patrons of the parish and the subordinate chapels (6). In 1342, Patrick, Earl of Dunbar, converted the parochial church into a collegiate fonn ; and the eight prebends which he established were the chapelries of Whitting- hame, Spott, Stenton, Penshiel, and Hetherwick, within this parish, with Duns and Chirnside in Berwickshire. Soon after that establishment, several of those chapelries, Spott, Stenton, and Hetherwick, were converted into parish churches, independent of the mother church, yet dependent as prebends of the college. Spott and Stenton still continue separate parishes. When Hetherwick was made a distinct parish it was called Belton, being the name of two villages in the vicinity of Hetherwick, as well as the estate, and the parish of Belton

(c) For more particulars, tlie more curious reader may consult the Stat. Acco., ii., and the Tabular State subjoined.

(a) (1) There was a chapel at Hederwick or Belton, in the western comer of the present parish. (2) There was a chapel at Pinkerton, in the south-ea.st of this parish. (3) There was a chapel at Whittinghame, in the lowlands of Whittinghame, in the present parish of Whittinghame. (4) There was a chapel at Penshiel, in the Lammermuir. (5) There was a chapel at Stenton. (6) And there was a chapel at Spott.

(b) Adam, the parson of Dunbar, died in 1179. Chron. Melrose. On the 26th of April 1209, Eandulph, " sacerdos de Dunbar," accepted the cure of Eccles. Id.

Sect. Yill—Ks Ecclesiastical History.'] OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 539

comprehended the western extremity of the present parish of Dunhar. It con- tinued a separate parish till the Reformation, when it was re-annexed to Dunbar. In Bagimont's Roll the rectory of Dunbar was rated at £8, and the rectory of Belton at £4. Dunbar and Belton appear as separate rectories in the Tax-Roll of the archbishopric, 1547. The patronage of the church of Dunbar fell to the king, with the forfeiture of the earldom of March, in January 1434-5 (c). Dui'ing the reign of James III., the earldom of Dunbar, with the patronage of the church, were enjoyed by the traitorous Duke of Albany ; and again fell to the king, on the forfeiture of this unworthy brother, in 1483. The church of Dunbar ceased to be collegiate at the Refoi'mation. When the bishojaric of Edinburgh was formed in 1633, the parson of Dunbar was con- stituted one of its prebendaries. Andrew Wood was removed from Spott to Dunbar soon after the Restoration; and was thence promoted, in 1G7G, to the bishopric of the Isles, with which he held, by dispensation, the rectory of Dunbar. In 1680 he was translated to the see of Caithness, which he ruled till his episcopate was abolished at the Revolution of 1689 ; and he died at Dunbar in 1695, at the venerable age of seventy-six {d). [The parish church, erected in 1819-21, has 626 communicants; stipend, £402. A quoad sacra church at Belhaven has 215 communicants. A Fi-ee Church has 285 members. A XJ.P. Church has 291 members. There are also a Wesleyan Methodist chapel, an Episcopal chapel of 1876, and a Roman Catholic chapel.]

The name of- the parish of Spot has always been written in this form, except that it has been sometiiiies spelt Spott. Thei-e are several places of the same name in England, as well as in Scotland. They seem all to have derived their several names from the English Sj)ot, a particular place, a small piece of ground. The chui'ch and hamlet of Spot stand in a confined space upon a peninsula, between two ravines, through which run two rivulets, which unite their streams at a little distance below. It is a sheltered, warm spot. This church was of old a chapel of Dunbar, as we have seen. The patronage belonged to the Earl of Dunbar and March ; and when he was attainted, in January 1434-5, the advowson fell to the ci'owu. In Bagimont's Ptoll the rectory of Spott was rated at £5 6s. 8d. It appears in the Tax-Roll of St. Andrews, 1547. In September 1528, Robert Galbraith, the rector of Spott, appeared in parliament as advocate for Queen Margaret, on the forfeiture of the Earl of Angus (e). In 1532 he was at the head of the ten advocates who were chosen as general procurators on the establishment of the Court of Session (f). In 1537 he was appointed a senator of the College of Justice. In February 1540-1 he appeared in parliament as one of the king's council (g) ;

(c) Pari. Eec, 72.

(d) For other particulars, the curious reader may consult the Stat. Ace, v., and the Tabular State subjoined. (e) Pari. Eec, 582. (/) Black Acts, fol. cxvi. (//) Pari. Eec, (;28.

540 AnACCOUNT [Ch. IV. —Haddmgtonshire.

and in Marcli 1544, he was assassinated by John Carketle, a burgess of Edinburgh {h). George Home of Spott was tried for the murder of Darnley, and afterward sat as one of the jurymen on the trial of Archibald Douglas for the same murder. lie was soon after himself assassinated by his son-in-law, James Douglas of Spott, according to general suspicion, and was one of the traitorous accomplices of Francis, Earl of Bothwell, when he attempted, on the 27th of December, 1591, to seize the king and murder Maitland,the chancellor(/). [The parish church was restored in 1848. Communicants, 110 ; stipend, £460.]

The village and parish of SxENTOiSr derive their names from the Saxon Stan- tun, the Stone town. The minister of the place, without attempting to explain the meaning of the name, assures us of the stoney qualities of the soil, and how much of his parish is enclosed with the freestone, which everywhere abounds {k). Stenton we have seen a chapel, and a prebend of Duiabar, and a rectory, the advowson whereof devolved on the crown, by the forfeiture of the Earl of March by James I. For several ages this village was called Petcohs [Pitcox], from the name of a village a mile and a quarter north-east of Stenton. In Bagimont's Roll the rectory of Petcoks is rated at £2 13s. 4d. The rectory of Petcoks also appeal's in the Tax-Roll of St. Andrews, 1547 (?) ; but the stoney qualities of the soil within the parish have induced the people to call this district Stenton. [The present parish church was erected in 1829. Com- municants, 320 ; stipend, £4G9].

The name of the parish of Whittinghame is derived, no doubt, from the Saxon "Whit-incr-ham, the dwelling: on the white mead. There are in England several places of the name of Whittlngham, as we may learn from the Villare, and there are various places, called Whittington, which has nearly the same mean- ing. The village, and church of Whittinghame, stand on the bank of Garvald water. Whittinghame parish formed of old two chapelries, which were subordi- nate to the church of Dunbar. The lower part of the parish was served by the

(Ji) Carketle and six accomplices were accused, in Parliament, of the cruel slaughter of Eobert Galbraith, the rector of Spott, and one of the senators of the College of Justice. lb., 675. He was succeeded, as rector of Spott, by James Hamilton, the natural brother of the Duke of Chatelherault, who soon resigned this rectory, when he was- postulate to the See of Glasgow. Keith, 173. He was followed by a son of Home of Cowdenknowes, who was rector of Spott at the Reformation, and he was succeeded by Andrew Wood, who died bishop of Caithness, as we have seen.

(i) Arnot's Crim. Trials, 35. The more curious reader may consult the Stat. Acco., v. 451, with the Extracts of the Parish Records, in p. 452, and the Tabular State subjoined.

(/>■) Stat. Acco., iii., 231. There are several places in Scotland called Stenton, and several in England named Stanton.

{i) For other particulars, see the Tabular State subjoined.

Sect. Ylll.—Iis Ecclesiastical History.] OfNOETH-5RITAIN. 541

chapel of Whittingharae, and the higher part in the Laramermuir was served by the chapel of Penshiel ; and these two chapels we may remember formed two of the prebends of the collegiate church when it was settled under this form in 1342. The Earls of March held their baronial courts at Whittinghame (m). In 1372, George Earl of March gave in marriage with his sister Agnes to James Douglas of Dalkeith, the manor of Whittinghame, with the patronage of the chapel (n). When Whittinghame and Penshiel became a separate parish, the Douglasses of Dalkeith enjoyed the patronage. In October 1564, Queen Mary granted to James Eai'l of Morton, who repi-esented the Douglasses of Dalkeith, all his estates with the barony of Whittinghame, with the castle and mills, and also the advowson of the church of Whittingharae ; and the queen's grant to that unworthy servant was ratified by parliament on the 19th of April 1567 (o). It was In the guilty castle of Whittinghame that Morton met Bothwell to con- cert the murder of Darnley, during the first week of December 1566 (p). Morton was forfeited in 1581, but James VI. returned the traitor's estates to his family, from whom Whittinghame passed to more worthy projjrietors (q).

The village of Prestonkirk derives Its name like other Prestons from Its being the hamlet of the priest. It is very ancient, and there appeal's to have been a church here in very early times on the northern bank of tlie Tyne. Preston was one of the villages where Baldred preached ; and was one of the thi'ee villages which contended for his body after his decease in the seventh cen- tury. Baldred was long the patron of this parish, which he had dignified by his residence (r). In the 12th century this parish was called Linton from the

()») In 1363, Patrick, Earl of Marcli, granted to Alexander de Eicklinton the half of the lands of Spot, whicli Sir Alexander Eamsay had resigned " in plena curia nostra apud Whytincreham." Eoberts. Index, 76.

(n) lb., 136. (o) Pari. Eec, 763.

(|>) See his confession on the scaffold to the ministers of Edinburgh in Bannatyne's Jounial, 494 ; and Crawford's Memoirs of Scotland, 2nd ed., App. 2. Morton was then just returned from England, where he had been expatriated for the murder of E'z'.io, and was now pardoned by the queen. Darnley was assassinated, in pursuance of that concert, on the 10th of February 1566-7.

(q) The estate of Whittinghame and the patronage of the church belongs to Hay of Drumellzier. See the Stat. Acco., ii., 345, and the Tabular State subjoined.

(r) The tradition is that he had built the church, which was rebuilt in 1770. His statue lay long in the church-yard, and Mr. Baron Hepburn intended to have caused it to be built into the church wall ; but an irreverent mason broke it in pieces, during his necessary absence. Mr. Baron Hepburn's MS. Letter to me of the 1st December 1801. In the vicinity of the very ancient church, there is a spring of the purest water which is called St. Baldred's Well, and a pool or eddy 4 3Z

512 An ACCOUNT [Ch. IV.—IIadcUngtonshire.

name of the village on the northern bank of the Tjne somewhat above Preston (s) ; and that village derived its name from a remai'kable 2^ool which the Tyne forms here by falling over a rock. Now, Li/u in the British and Linn in the Gaelic signify a 2^00?. and to the Celtic term the Saxon settlers affixed their tun to denote their dwelling at the Lin (t). The church of Linton appears to have been of great value. In the ancient Taxatio it was valued at TOO marks. Dunbar at 180 marks, and Haddington at 130, were only of superior value among the churches in the deanery of Lothian. At a subsequent period, the tenth of the rectory of Linton was rated in Bagimont's Roll at £20. Ptichard, the parson of Linton, swore fealty to Edward I., and received a precept in return for the restoration of his property (it). The patronage of the church belonged to the Earls of Dunbar, who held the whole parish, and the lands were enjoyed under them by various vassals (.»). When Earl Patrick formed his collegiate establishment in the chiu'ch of Dunbar, he made the church of Linton one of the prebends, and indeed the most valuable of the whole of them. The patronage of the rectory and of the prebend fell to the king, by the for- feiture of the earldom in January 1434-5. Linton continued the proper name of the parish till the Reformation (y). It was even then, however, colloquially, called Haugh, from the location of the church on a flat or haugh on the margin of the Tyne. In June 1493, there was a suit heard in parliament by John Ireland, the parson of Halch, against George Smethtoun (2), and Robert Fleming, which throws some light on ancient practices. The parson com- plained that the parties had wrongfully obstructed his servants in pasturing his

in the Tyne. that is known as St. Baldred's Whirl. Stat. Acco., si., 86. On the coast of Tj-ning- hame, there is, as we have observed, a remarkable bason formed by the sea in a rock, which is filled at spring tides, and is called St. Baldred's Cradle. The Honourable Mr. Baron Hepburn has informed me, that his uncle, showing him St Baldred's Cradle, said the tradition was that it was rocked by the winds and waves. [See Eitchie's "Churches of Saint Baldred," 1883.]

(s) Chart. Newbotle, 121.

it) There are many places of the same name in England as well as in Scotland. On the 17th of July 1127, Blahan, the presbyter of Linton, witnessed the charter of Robert, the bishop of St. Andi-ews, to the monks of St. Cuthbert at Coldingham. Smith's Bede, App. sx.

(«) Rym., ii., 724.

{x) Chart. Newbotle, and Roberts. Index. On the lands of Waughton, in the northern extremity of the parish, there was previous to the Reformation, a chapel which was subordinate to the church; and the rains of which are still obvious to the antiquarian eye.

(jl) The rectory of Linton appears in the Tax Roll of St. Andrews, 1547.

{:) Those were local names from Smethtoun, [Smeaton] in the vicinity of Preston, within this parish.

Sect. Ylll.—Iis Ecclesiastical Ilistimj.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN 543

cattle Oil the moor of Preston wliicli he had a right to do hy reason of his hirk. David Hepburn of Waughton appeared for liis intei-est, alleging that the moor belonged to him in heritage. The Lords, judicially, ordered the sheriff to summon, on a day named, thirty persons the best and worthiest of the country as an inquest to determine hoio the said moor had stood in times bypast ; and the Lords ordained the patron of the Halch to be called for his interest (a). This is a very instructive proceeding in Parliament. We may remember that, by a very ancient canon of the Scottish Church, the parson had a right to commonage over every common in his parish ; and that canon being followed, by immemorial custom, neither the plea of heritage nor a grant of the ci'own could over-rule the parson's right. This proceeding, however, shows the beginning of opposi- tion to a j^ractice that must have been very inconvenient if not unjust, and cer- tainly impolitic. The patronage of this parish church was probably then invested in Hepburn, Earl of Bothwell, whose influence was then unbounded ; and the patronage seems to have been immemorially annexed to the lordship of Hailes in this parish (h). The more ancient names of this parish, Linton and Ilauch, were superseded after the Reformation by the name of Preston-haugh, which has also in its turn been superseded during recent times by the more appropri- ate designation of Preston-hirk (c). [The Parish Church was enlarged in 1824 ; communicants, 350, stijDend, £295. A Free Church has 286 membei's, and a U.P. Church has 112 members].

The parish of Whitekirk and Tyninghajvie comprehends the ancient parishes of Aldhame and Tyninghame, of Hamir or Whitekirk. Tyninghame derives its name from the location of the village upon a meadoio on the northern side of the Tyae. Tyne-ing-ham signifies, in the Saxon, the hamlet upon the meadow on the Tyne (d). The church of Tyninghame is very ancient ; it was foiuided in the 6th century by St. Baldred who died here in 607, after pi-eachiiig the gospel to a confiding people, who fought for his body after his spirit had

(a) Pari. Eec, 378. No further proceedings appear in tbe Record, as the laird of Waugliton was probably told by his lawyers that his plea was bad ; nor does the patron appear.

(l) On the 10th of December 1543, appeared in Parliament ilaister Nicol Creichton, parson of Ilauch, and entered a protest on behalf of the bishop of Dunkeld ; but neither the bishop's rights nor his wrongs appear on the record. The Testament of Sir Patrick Hepburn of Waughton, dated the olst of August 1547, remains in the hands of the Honourable Mr. Baron Hepburn, who obligingly furnished me with a copy. By it Sir Patrick " made bis eldest son, Patrick, assignee to the kirk of Ilauche during my tales [leases] that I have of Maister Nicol Cn-ichton, now being parson oj' the Ilauche.'

(c) See the Stat. Ace, xi., 83, and the Tabular State subjoined. [The police burgh of East Linton. in this parish, had in 1881 a population of 1042.]

(d) Ing, in the A.-S., means a meadow ; ham signifies a dwelling ; and Tyne is the British name of the river.

544 A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. IV.—ITaddinfftonshire.

fled (e). If we could believe in the genuineness of Duncan's charter to St. Cuth- bert and his servitors, we ought to admit that four remarkable places lying within this united parish were granted by him to St. Cuthbert (/'). Tyningham, Audham, Scuchale, [Scougal], and Cnolle, [Kuowes], with Hetherwick and Brocesmouth, are the places which are contained in the supposititious charter of Duncan to St. Cuthbert. This charter has always been suspected of forgery, by antiquaries, from the unsuitableness of its form more than from an examination of its matter. It appears not from any document that St. Cuthbert 's monks, who were sufficiently pertinacious, ever enjoyed or claimed the churches and lands which Duncan is supposed to have given them, and which none of his successors from Edgar to Robert III. ever confirmed. It may even be shown that those churches and lands did not belong to him to give or them to receive. At the epoch of Duncan's pretended charter, Hetherwick belonged to Cospatrick of Dunbar, and continued in his family till the sad epoch of his forfeiture. Brocesmouth was possessed by William Morville, and Muriel, his spouse, who bestowed a part of this property on the monks of Kelso (g). It is not to be believed that such a king as Duncan would give to St. Cuthbert the lands which Malcolm Canmore had conferred on such a person as Cospatrick, the Earl of Northiimberland, and as we never see St. Cuthbert's servitors in possession of any of those lands it is not to be credited that they ever enjoyed them. On the other hand the chartulary of Coldingham evinces that the first property which was given to the monks of St. Cuthbert in Scotland was conferred by the charters of Edgar after the demise of Duncan, and which were confirmed by his successors, who recognised his grants and allowed their possession. If the six places lying in Haddingtonshire, which Duncan is supposed to have granted to the monks of St. Cuthbert, had

(e) Such is the legend ! It is pretty certain that Baldred died in 607 a.d. In 941, Anlaf, the Dane, spoiled the church of St. Balther [Baldred], and burnt the village of Tyninghauie. Chron. Melrose ; Hoveden, 423 ; and M. of Westminster. This is a very early notice of the kirk-town of Tyninghame.

(_/■) Diplom. Scotise, pi. iv. The late William Eobertson, of the Eegister Office at Edinburgh, has given a copy of this charter, with a positive opinion as to its authenticity. Index, 153. He formed his opinion by his eye rather than his understanding ; by a view of the parchment, more than by an examination of its contents.

((j) Chart. Kelso, 13-320. It afterward belonged to the bishop of St. Andrews. Aldhame and Suchele also belonged to the bishops of St. Andrews. It is a fact, which the chartulary of Coldingham testifies, that the monks of St. Cuthbert never had any other property in East Lothian than a toft in Haddington, which William the Lion gave them, and an annuity of four pennies in Gullane, which William de Vallibus conferred on them.

Sect. YllL—rts Ecclesiastical nistoru.\ 0 f N 0 R T H - B E I T A I N. 545

been really conveyed to them, we should have seen in the chartulary of Coldingham the same confirmations of them, followed by possession, as we therein perceive of the thirteen places in Berwickshire which were undoubtedly granted by the charters of Edgar. Here then are facts .which, in addition to other objections, evince that the charter of Duncan to St. Cuthbert is as putative as his birth and title. The church of Tyninghame enjoyed of old the privilege of sanctuary (/i). In the ancient Taxatio, the chui'ch of Tyninghame was valued at 40 marks, and in Bagimont's Roll, it was rated at £1Q 13s. 4d. William Spot, the parson of Tyninghame, swore fealty to Edward on the 2nd of September 1296, and was rewarded with the restitution of his property ({). The manor of Tyninghame, with the pati'onage of the church, belonged to the bishops of St. Andrews {k) ; and they were included within the regality of that see which lay on the southern side of the Forth. During the reign of David II., Patrick de Leuchars of Fifeshire was rector of Tyninghame, and rose to be bishop of Brechin and chancellor of Scotland (/). Roger de Musselburgh probably succeeded him as rector of Tyninghame {m) ; and, Roger was again employed, during 1372, in a similar trust {n). Under James III., George Brown, who became bishoji of Dunkeld, was rector of Tyninghame (o), and as he joined the rebellious faction, which had promoted hie advancement, he concurred with them in pursuing his sovereign to an

(/«) Malcolm IV. granted to the monks of Kelso the church of Inverlethan, giving to that church the same privilege of sanctuary as T3'ninghame and Stow enjo3'ed. Chart. Kelso, 20. Tyninghame and Stow, we may remember, were connected with the see of St. Andrews.

{%) Eym., ii.. 725.

{k) Alexander Fossard de Tyningliame, Richard le Barker de Tyninghame, and Gilbert Fitzhenry de Tyninghame, the tenants of the bishop of St. Andrews, swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick, on tbo 28th of August 1296. Prynne, iii., 658.

(/) He was consecrated bishop in 1 354 ; he was soon after made chancellor, an office which he held till 1370, during the troublous administration of David II., who demised in 1371. Bishop Leuchars was alive in 1373, but was dead in 1384. Keith, 95.

())() On the 5th of February 1366, Roger, with twenty horsemen, obtained a safe conduct to enter Berwick, to make a payment of David's ransom. Eym., vi., 493.

(n) On the 23rd June 1372, Roger witnessed at Berwick a notorial proceeding of the Chamberlain of Scotland, with regard to another payment of David's ransom. Pari. Rec, 127.

(o) He was the son of George Brown, the treasurer of Dundee ; he studied at St. Andrews, where he became one of the four regents of St. Salvator's college ; he was ordained a presbyter in 1464, and became chancellor of Aberdeen; he was by James II. sent on an ambassage to Rome in 1384, where he was consecrated by Sistus IV., the bishop of Dunkeld.

546 AnACCOUNT [Cb. lY .—Haddingtonshire.

untimely end on Stirling-field {p). Tyninghame, witli the patronage of the church, appear to have been conferred on St. Mary's college, which was founded at St. Andrews, in 1552, by Archbishop Hamilton. This muniti- cence seems not to have promoted the interest of the parish (g). Tyninghame was for a while held by the Earl of Haddington, under the archbishop (?•) . The earl, on the 7th of February 1628, obtained a charter, under the Great Seal, of the lands and lordship of Tyninghame (s). Tyninghame became the seat of this prosperous family, who, by plantation and other improve- ments, ornamented their domain and beautified the country. Aid-ham, in the Saxon, signifies the old dwelling or hamlet (t). The kirk -town stands on the sea clifi" in the northern extremity of the parish. The church is probably as ancient as the 6th century, if it were founded by Baldred, who died in 607 a.d. This parish only contained the lands of Aid-ham and Scuchal [Scougal] ; and those are two of the places which are certainly mentioned in the sup- posititious charter of Duncan, yet were never enjoyed by St. Cuthbert's monks, in pursuance of the grant. The lands of Scuchal were long possessed by the family of Scougal, which produced some eminent men, under the bishops of St. Andrews, who were patrons of the church of Aldham from the eai'liest times. The lands of Aldham were held, under the archbishop of St. Andrews, by Adam Otterburn, who was the king's advocate, from 1525 to 1537, and was meantime appointed one of the senators of the College of Justice, till he died about the year 1547. Both Aldham and Scougal continued with the archbishop till the year 1630 (ii). This parish, from its paucity of people, was of little value, and was of course only estimated in the ancient Taxatio at six marks. William, the parson of Aldham, swore fealty to Edward I. at Ber- wick, on the 28th of August 1296, and received in return the restitution of his property (x). The ruins of the ancieiit church of Aldham on the sea-cliff were

(p) Pari. Eec, 318. Tlie guilty bishop died on the 14th of January 1514-15, aged 76, Innes's MS. Chronology.

((/) On the 27th June, 1.5G5, a complaint was made to the General Assembly by the parishioners of Tyninghame, who paid their tithes to the new college of St. Andrews, and yet had no preaching or administration of the sacraments. Mi\ John Douglas, the rector of the university and master of the new college, promised to satisfy the said complaints, and that the kirk should not be again troubled with such a complaint. Keith's Hist., 544.

(r) Eeliq. Divi. And., 118. (.«) Dough Peer., 318.

{t) In England there are several places of the same name. In Suffolk there is the parish of Oldham.

(u) Eeliq. Divi. Andreae, 120. (x) Prj-nne, iii., 663 ; Eym., ii., 724.

Sect, yill.— Its Ecclesiastical Histori/.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 547

apparent in 1770, but were soon after removed for some domestic purpose. At Scougal, about a mile south-east of Aldhame, there was of old a chapel, the ruins whereof still remain in proof of the piety of the Scougals.

The parish of Hamer or Whitekirk was anciently called Hamer, from the kii'k-town. Ham-er, in the Saxon, signifies the greater ham. It may have obtained this appellation in contradistinction to Aldhame, which stood only two miles on the northward. The parish of Hamer was more populous than Aldhame, though not so populous as Tyninghame. In the ancient Taxatio the church of Hamer was valued only at 10 marks, Both the church and manor of Hamer were granted during the 12th century, to the monks of Holyrood- house, though by whom cannot now be ascertained. They retained both till the Reformation. The church of Hamer, which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, from the whiteness of its appearance, was early called Whitekirk ; and at length became, in the popular tradition, the name of the village and parish. In 1356, when Edward III. invaded East-Lothian, as he was attended by shipi^ing, the sailors entered the church of our Lady in the barony of Hamer, and spoiled her of her ornaments. In relating this outrage, Fordun forgets not to tell how the Virgin raised such a storm as made the sailors wish that they had not offended her by their spoliation (y). The canons of Holyrood, who resided here for the service of the Virgin, seem to have been unable to pre- vent or to punish the profanity of the seamen (2). We may learn, however, from this intimation that the monks usually officiated at those churches which belonged to the religious houses. The church of our Lady at White- kirk became a place of frequent pilgrimage (a). The church and lands and barony of Auld- Hamer or Whitekirk, with all that had pertained to the canons of Holyrood of this ancient establishment, were cast into the form of a regality, and granted in 1633 to the bishop of Edinburgh and his successors. On the suppression of the bishopric in 1689, the patronage of Whitekirk devolved on the king. During the 17th century the parish of Whitekirk was augmented by the annexation of the little parish of Aldhame ; and in 1761, to this united parish was annexed the adjoining parish of Tyninghame. The present parish thus comprehends the ancient scires of Tyninghame, Aldhame, and Hamer, or Whitekirk (hi). The churches of Tyninghame and of Aldhame have been

(2/) Ford., 1. siv., c. 13-14. {z) lb., ii., 355.

(a) See Hay's MS. Acco. of Religious Establishments in the Advocate's Lib., W. 2. 2. (h) Simeon of Durham records, in 854 A.D., the parishes of Aldhame and Tyninghame as then belonging to the bishopric of Lindisfarne. Twisden, 139.

548 AkACOOUNT [Ch. lY.—Haddingtonshwe.

demolished, and Whitekirk is now the only place of worship for the parishioners of the three parishes conjoined (c). The patronage of this united parish belongs, by turns, to the king in right of Whitekirk, and the Eai'l of Haddington in virtue of Tyninghame {d). [The communicants of the Church of Scotland in this parish number 353. The stipend is £430.]

The village of Ixnerwick derived its name from the Saxon Inner-wic, signify- ing an interior dwelling or hamlet. While there are two villages on the shore, Skaleraw and Thorntonloch, within this jjarish, the village of Innerwick stands inland a mile and a quarter. To such circumstances and location it no doubt owes its equivocal appellation. There appears not any water near the village of Innerwick to which the Gaelic Inver could be fitly applied, and moreover, ivic being a Saxon term either for a castle or a hamlet, and not the name of a sti-eam, could not analogically be coupled with the Gaelic Inver, which is indeed corrupted by colloquial use to Inner (e). In many charters of the 12th and 13th centuries the name of this place is written Innerwic and Ennerwic. In more modern writings it is uniformly spelt Inner- wick, which is adopted by the minister of the parish. The extensive manor of Innerwick was granted by David I. to Walter, the son of Alan, the first >S^eifa?'<, and David's grant was confirmed by Malcolm IV. in 1157. Various English vassals settled within the manor of Innerwick (/). His descendants enjoyed the superiority of this manor even down to recent times. Walter, the son of Alan, granted to his favourite monks of Paisley, at the epoch of theii- establishment, the church of Innerwick with its pertinents, a carucate of land between the church and the sea, with the mill of Innerwick {g). Mal- colm IV. confirmed this foundation charter (/i). The church of Innerwick was

(c) The ancient cliurch of Tyninghame stood a quarter of a mile below the village, on the northern side of the Tj'ne, in a beautiful field, which has a gentle slope to the water's edge, whence the church was distant 300 yards. MS. Eelation of the Rev. Dr. Carfrae of Dunbar.

(cZ) The curious reader will find little addition to the curious detail above, in the Stat. Acco., xvii., 574 ; yet some important facts will be found in the Tabular State subjoined. [See also Ritchie's Churches of St. Baldred.]

(«) In, saith Somner, iii, intra, intus, in, within, inwardly. In the Saxon, in is a very frequent prefix. See Somner : Er, he adds, " Terminatio comparativorum apud Anglo-Saxones ; ut est, superlativorum." Thus in-er, among the Anglo-Saxons, means more than within. Neither Bailey nor Johnson has sufficiently adverted to this exposition of Somner.

(/) Caledonia, i., 576-7 ; Chart. Paisley and Kelso. (g) Chart. Paisley, 7-9.

(/() lb., 8. William the Lion confirmed it. lb., 10 ; and Alan, the son of Walter, added his con- firmation, lb., 35. It was confirmed by Richard, the bishop of St. Andrews, the diocesan, who allowed the monks to enjoy the church of Innerwick to their proper use. lb., 14 ; and to all those confirmations Pope Alexander III. added two bulls of recognition. lb., 11-12.

Sect. VIIL— /<s Ecclesiastical History.] OfNOETH-BEITAIN. 540

not very rich. It was valued in the ancient Taxatio at only 30 marks. The cure was served by a vicar, who was appointed by the monks. William, who ruled the see of St. Andrews from 1202 to 1233, confirmed to the monks of Paisley their church of Innerwick, with the pertinents, to their proper use ; and by his episcopal authority he ordained that the vicar should have the altarages with some land on the western side of the cemetery, rendering yeai'ly to the monks seven marks of money as a pension {i). The vicar, in fact, enjoyed a messuage and garden near the burying-ground, and an acre of ground on its northern side (k). In Bagimont's Roll, the vicarage was rated at £3 6s. 8d. (/). Thomas de ?Fulcon, the vicai", swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick on the 28th of August 1296 (??i) ; and no doubt obtained a restoration of his rights. Of old, there was within this 2:)arish a chapel dedicated to St. Dennis, the ruins whereof are still standing on a small promontory in the northern corner of this maritime parish. The monks of Paisley continued to enjoy the church of Innerwick, till the Reformation introduced here a very different system. In the meantime, the manor of Innerwick was held by various vassals under the Stewart. The monks of Kelso obtained from that beneficent race, some lands and pastures within this manor (u). The second Walter, the Stewart, gave them liberty to erect a mill on their lands, within his manor ; and he renounced to them an annuity of twenty shillings and two pairs of boots, which they were wont to pay him for the fee-firm of certain pastures within the manor of Innerwick (o). A remarkable change at length arrived. The barony, and indeed the whole possessions of the Stewart of Scotland were erected by Ptobert III. into a free regality, on the 10th of December 1404, as a principality for the eldest son of the Scottish kings (^:>). When Renfrew became a separate shire, the barony of Innerwick was annexed to it, as it was part of the stewartry, though it was actually situated within East-Lothian (j). Sir Peter Wedderburn of Gosford, who became a senator

{i) Chart. Paisley, 15. {k) lb., 48.

(/) Honorhis III. added liis confirmation of tlie cliurcli and its pertinents, -with a carucate of land, common of pasture within the manor, and the mill of Innerwick. lb., 149. Honorius died in 1227. The monks also enjoyed the necessary accommodation for collecting their tithes. lb., 48. In 1247, the monks obtained from David, the bishop of St. Andrews, and from John, the prior, a confirmation of the church of Innerwick, with all that belonged to it. lb., 17-18.

(m) Prynne, iii., 658. (n) Chart. Kelso, 247-60. (o) lb., 246.

{p) MS. Monast. Scotise ; Carmichael's Tracts ; Casus Principis.

(5) Between the years 1661 and 1G69, Charles II., as Stewart of Scotland, granted many charters 4 4 A

550 ■ fi I A T A N A C C 0 U N T [Ch. IV.—ffaddington^hire.

of the College of Justice in 1668, obtained, in February 1670, to him and his heirs of entail, a grant of the rectory nnd vicarage-tithes of Innerwick. In July 1670, he obtained a grant to him and his heirs of entail, of the barony of Thornton, in the parish of Innerwick, and in January 1671, he obtained the barony itself of Innerwick (r). Some other changes seem to have taken place in the barony of Innerwick, as the patronage of the church belongs to a differ- ent family (s). [The parish church was erected in 1784. Communicants 240. Stipend £450. A Free Church has 80 members.]

The name of the parish of Oldhamstocks is derived from the name of the kirk-town, and the ancient appellation of tlie village was usually written in charters, Aldhamstoc, and Aldhaivstok (t). These forms of the word are obviously derived from the Saxon Aldhavi, the old habitation, and Stoe, a place (u). Though OWhamstocks be the modern spelling, the popular name is Aldhamstoks. The final first appeared in the 16th century. The village and church stand upon the high bank of a rivulet, which is called at this place the Dean burn, though below it is named the Dunglass burn. The church of Oldhamstocks is ancient (x). In the ancient Taxatio it was rated at the high value of 60 marks. In Bagimont's Roll, it was rated at £10. This church never belonged to any monastery. The patronage of the rectory seems to have continued with the lord of the manor, who cannot be easily traced on so doubtful a frontier. Oldhamstocks appears not among the manors or baronies of Haddington constabulary, in the Tax-Roll of 1613, and from this circum- stance we may infer that it had been long merged in the barony of Dunglass. After various successions, the patronage of the church of Oldhamstocks became invested in Hunter of Thurston. On the 28th of August 1296, Thomas de

to the vassals of the stewartry living upon the manor of Innerwick ; and their lands are described as lying in the constabulary of Haddington and sheriffdom of Edinburgh, but by annexation, within the sheriffwick of Eenfrew. MS. Collection of Charters. >' {f) Douglas's Baron., 283, which quotes the charters in the Pub. Archives.

■^^'•'(«) The inquisitive reader will gain vei-y little additional information as to this parish from the iStat. Aceo., i., 121 ; but the Tabular State subjoined supplies some other notices. (t) Chart. Coldingham.

(«) The Saxon Stoc, which means the same as Stoiv, a place, appears in the names of many places in England. In Spelman's Villare, there are twenty places named Stoke, and many compounds, as Stoke-hxsxj, Basing-«io^e, <Stoi«-pogis, /Sto^e-Severn, etc.

(x) On the 17th of July 1127, Aldulph, the presbjier of Aldehamstoc, witnessed a charter of Eobert, the bishop of St. Andrews, to the monks of St. Cuthbert, at Coldingham. Smith's Bede, Appx. XX.

Sect. VIII.— /<s Ecclesiastical History.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 551

Hunsingour, the parson of Oldhamstocks, swore fealty to Edward I. at Berwick, and was thereupon restored to his rectory {y). The subsequent history of this parish is obscure. It is recorded, as an existing rectory, in the Archbishop's Eoll of 1547. Thomas Hepburn, the parson of Oldhamstocks, was admitted master of requests to Queen Mary, on the 7th of May 1557, two days after her inauspicious marriage with Bothwell (z). A detached part of the parish of Oldhamstocks, consisting of the lands of Butterdean, and lying on the northern side of the Eye water, is in Berwickshire (a). Thus much, then, with regard to the several parishes in the presbyteiy of Dunbar. [The parish church has 120 communicants ; stipend £409].

The parish of Ormiston is comprehended within the presbytery of Dalkeith. This parish derives its name from the kirk-town, which itself obtained its well- known appellation from some Saxon settler here, whose tun or dwelling it became. Orme was a common name during the 11th and 12th centuries, as we know from the chartularies ; but it is in vain to attempt the ascertaining of Orme, who actually gave his name to this hamlet. The church was dedicated to St. Giles, and it was granted, with its pei'tinents, to the hospital of Soltre, which was founded, as we have seen, by Malcolm IV. William the bishop of St. Andrews, in the 13th century, confirmed to the master and brothers of Soltre, the church of St. Giles at Ormiston, with its revenues, to their proper use {&). In the ancient Taxatio, the church of Ormiston w^as valued only at 12 marks. Mary of Guelder, the widowed queen of James II., when she founded the Trinity College at Edinburgh, in March 1462, annexed to it all the churches with their rights which belonged to the hospital of Soltre. She now assigned the revenues of the church of Ormiston, in four equal shares, to the prebendaries of Ormiston, Gilestoun, Hill, and Newlands, belonging to her college. This foundation of Mary of Guelder was confirmed, in April 1462, by James bishop of St. Andrews, the diocesan (c). The regent Murray intro- duced a less useful regimen. In 1567, he gave the Trinity church, with its revenues, to Sir Simon Preston, the provost of Edinburgh, who conferred the whole on the city ; and the magistrates purchased the right of Robert Pont, the provost of this collegiate establishment, in 1587 {d). The patronage of the

(y) Prynne, iii. 662.

(z) Keith's Hist. 387. On the 18th of August 1568, Thomas Hepburn, the same parson, with others, were prosecuted in Parliament for aiding the queen in making her escape from Lochleven castle, and were, on the subsequent day, convicted of treason. Pari. Eec. 806-7-12. . (a) See the Tabular State subjoined. {b) Chart. Soltre, 5.

(c) Maitland's Hist. 208. (d) lb. 212.

552 An A C C 0 U N T [Ch. TV.—HaddingtonsJttre.

church of Ormiston was meantime acquh-ed by Cockburn, the lord of the manor, who certainly enjoyed it in after times. In 1747, John Cockburn of Ormiston, sold his estate, with the patronage of the church, to John Earl of Hopetoun, who now became proprietor of the whole parish (e). After the Reformation, the parish of Ormiston was considerably enlarged by the annexation of the estate of Peiston, which was disjoined from Pencaitland. Whether the fine village of Ormiston, standing on the northern side of the Tyne, was ever a baronial burgh is uncertain. In the middle of the broad street, which runs through the town from east to west, there is a cross, of the erection whereof tradition is silent ; but, " from its ancient appearance," saith the minister, " it is evidently a relic of 2^'^P^^^y {/) >" ^^^ from this intimation we may infer that the inhabitants are better farmers than antiquaries (g). [The present Parish Church was erected in 1856. Communicants 240; stipend £340. A Free Chui'ch has 95 members].

SouTRA and Fala make but one united parish ; the first lying in Haddington, and the latter in Edinburghshire, and both forming a part of the presbytery of Dalkeith. The church and hamlet of Soutra stand on a very conspicuous site on the summit of Soutra hill, which separates Lothian from Lauderdale, and sends its rivulets in opposite directions to the north and south. This hamlet, which was so long the active scene of charity, commands a most ex- tensive prospect ; a natural circumstance this, whence it obviously derived its descriptive name from the language of the British people : Swl-tre, — signifying in the Cambro-British language prospect-toion (h). Here was an hospital established by Malcolm IV., as we have seen, to which was annexed a chapel ; and when this district was formed into a parish, the chapel was declared to be the parish church. This parish church does not appear in the ancient Taxatio, as it ]:)elonged to the master and brothers of this charitable foundation. Thus it continued till Mary of Guelder, in her widowhood, established, in 1462, her collegiate church near Edinburgh, as we have seen ; and the churches and lands belonging to the hospital of Soltre were perverted to a very different

(e) Stat. Acco. iv. 171.

(/) It is obviously the market-cross of a prosperous town in the midst of an agricultural country. The marl-et-cross was an object of grant, in former times, with respect to policy more than to religion.

{g) Of Ormiston, was Mr. Andrew Wight, the son of a very intelligent farmer, who was employed in 1773, by the trustees for the forfeited estates, to make the Agricultural Surveys, which were printed in 1778, and the following years.

{h) See Owen's Diet, in vo. swl, a prospect. Tref or tre signifies a homestead, a hamlet. In the charters of the 12th, 13th and 14th centuries the name of this place is written Soltre.

Sect. Yin.— Its Ecclesiastical. Ilistonj.] 0 F N 0 E T H - B E I T A I N. 553

purpose. The church of Soltre was now served by a vicar (/). Other perver- sions followed. At length the Regent Murray gave the Trinity Church, with its pertinents, to the Provost of Edinburgh, who assigned the whole to the cor- poration ; and in this manner did the city acquire the patronage of the church of Soutra, with the property of the most part of the paris;h {k). It was afterward annexed to Fala, and from the period of the annexation the magistrates of Edinburgh and Sir John Dalrymple became the patrons, by turns, of the united parish (/). [The Parish Church has 138 communicants; stipend, £213. A U.P. Church has 106 members].

Thus much, then, with respect to the twenty-four parishes lying within the shire of Haddington. To the foregoing notices is immediately subjoined a Tabular State, as an useful supplement, which will, perhaps, be found both interesting in its facts and useful in its information. In making up the amount of the stipends of those several parishes the grain has been valued : the wheat at £1 5s. 9d. per boll; the barley at 19s. 4d. ; the oats at 14s. 9d. ; the pease at 14s. 6d. per boll; and the oatmeal at 16s. 8d. per boll of eight stone ; being an average of the fiar prices of Haddington for the seven years ending in 1795, taking the medium of the three qualities of the grain (»»). The stipends of mostly all the parishes in this shire have been augmented during recent times, when the prices of necessaries became higher and the value of money grew less (n).

()') In 1467, John Heriot, the vicar of Soutra, appears as a witness in several charters. Spottis- wood's Acco. of Eel. Houses, 536. In October 1479, on hearing a cause in Parliament, the Lords directed Eolly Lermonth and others to prove that Schir John Herriot, the vicar of Soutra, had power from Schir Edward of Bunkle, the provost of the Trinity College, beside Edinburgh, to lease the tithes of Fawnys. Pari. Eec, 257.

(k) See Maitland's Edinburgh, 210-12.

(/) The united parish is four miles long and four miles broad ; is served by one minister, whose stipend in 1755 was £68 2s. 9d., and in 1798, £77 ISs. ; and the number of its parishioners in 1755 was 312 ; in 1791, 372 ; and in 1801, 354.

(?») The allowance for communion elements and the value of the glebes arc included, but not the value of the manses and office houses. The boll of barley and oats in Haddingtonshire is 6 bushels, 9 pints, 4.9 cubic inches, English standard measure, which is about 6 pints more than the Linlithgow boll. The boll of wheat and pease contains 4 bushels, 1 3 pints, 9.4 cubic inches, English standard measure, being nearly 3 per cent, above the Scottish standard measure.

(n) The parishes, the stipends whereof have been thus augmented, are : Haddington, Athelstanoford, Aberlady, Gladsmuir, Pencaitland, Salton, Bolton, Humble, Tester, Garvald and Barra, Dunbar, Spott, Slenton, Whittinghame, Prestonkirk, Innerwick, and Oldhamstocks.

554

An account

Ch. rV. — Haddingtonshire.

The Tabulab State.

Parishes.	Extent in Acres.	Inhabitants. ■g 1755. 1801. 1881. H	Churches. &. D H		Stipends. 1755. V,	98.		Past Patrons.	Valuation. 1887-88.
								£	s.	D.	£	s.	D.		£ S. D.
Haddington, ■	12,113	3,975 4,049	5,660 i	1	2	1	'1	100 66	13 2	4 2	202 171	10 9	9 4	The Earl of Hopetoon.	21,667 3 9
Athelstaneford,	5,080i	691 897	762 1	—	—	—	—	71	1	1	177	2	8	Kiuloch of Gilmerton.	9,646 5 0
North Berwick,	5,372|	1,412 1,583	2,686 1	1	1	1	1	72	6	8	160 14	8	Dalrjmiple of North Berwick.	16,083 2 5
Dirieton, -	10,7981	1,700 1,115	1,506 1	1	—	1	—	106	4	4	215	3	6	Nisbet of Dirieton.	14,605 U 3
Aberlad)',	4,928	739 875	1,000 1	—	—	—	—	79	9	11	168	13	9	The Earl of Wemyss.	9,563 U 0
Gladsmuir,	7, 165 J	1,415 1,470	1,747 1	—	—	—	—	74	7	6	164	19	9	The King and the Earl of Hopetoun.	13,651 3 2
Tranent, •	6,176i	2,459 3,046	5,198 )	1	1	—	—	82	12	4	153	16	0	The King.	23,815 7 3
Prestonpans, - Cockenzie, -	j 1,429 J	1,596 1,964	2,573 1	1 1	—	—	—	116	16	9	191	10	3	The Earl of Hyndford.	10,747 3 5
Pencaitland, -	5,075^	910 925	1,107 1	1	—	—	—	85	16	9	178 18	8	Hamilton of Pencaitland.	7,506 15 2
Salton, -	3,8111	761 768	575	1	—	—	—	84	10	6	155	3	8	Fletcher of Salton.	5,538 6 8
Bolton, -	3,1064	359 252	337 ]	—	—	—	—	66	13	9	124	12	0	Lord Blantyre.	3,701 13 6
Humbie, -	S,797i	570 785	907 1	1	—	—	—	77	4	5	141	0 10	The King and the Earl of Hopetoun.	8,625 3 0
Yester, -	S,847i	1,091 929	924 1	1	—	—	—	69	6	0	153	7	6	The Marquis of Tweeddale.	8,349 17 10
Garvald, -	13,442	774 749	758 1	1	—	—	—	67 13	6	152	9	9	The King and the Marquis of Tweed dale.	8,349 18 0
Morham, •	2,0S7i	245 254	209 ]	—	—	—	—	69	10	9	137	13	6	Dalrymple of Hailes.	2,859 15 0
Danbar, • Belhaven,	8,803	3,281 3,951	5,393 j	1	1	1	U ->	98	1	10	223	4	9	The Duke of Koxburgh.	21,013 5 6
Spott,	7,582|	727 502	579 ]	—	—	—	—	63	17	2	165	0	8	Hay of Spott	6,041 7 0
Stenton, •	4,8181	631 620	594	—	—	—	—	56	11	8	121	15	0	Nisbet of Dirieton.	6,147 3 0
Whittinghame,	15,595	714 658	639 1	—	—	—	—	62	19	8	128	9	8	Hay of Drumellier.	7,158 1 4
Prestonkirk, -	7,088J	1,318 1,471	1,929	I 1	1	—	—	86	15	4	185	12	3	Dalrymple of Hailes.	15,865 18 0
■Whitekirk,	7,153i	968 925	1,051 1	I —	—	—	—	123	11	4	155	6	6	The King and the Earl of Haddington	10,555 2 2
Innerwick,	13,424i	941 846	777	1	—	—	—	83	3	4	169	15	3	Nisbet of Dirieton.	11,078 12 0
Oldhamstocks,	1,419S	504 466	568	I —	—	—	—	83	1	1	123	6	5	Hunter of Thurston.	4,950 1 8
Ormiston,	3,443i	810 766	1,026	1 1	—	—	—	78	13	3	180 12	4	The Earl of Hopetoun.	6,875 6 5
		Totals,	2i	3 15	6	4	3					Total	with Burghs and Bailways,	£318,350 14 0

Bed. I.— Its Name.] Of N OETH-BEIT AIN . 555

i-'y

CHAP V. Of JSdinburghshire.

§ 1. Of its Hame.l THIS county obviously derived its appellation from the city of Edinburgh, the chief town of the shire, the metropolis of the king- dom. The name of the capital of North-Britain as it has puzzled all the antiquaries, has been proposed as an appropriate theme for scholastic disserta- tion. Meantime, it is certain, that the toivn derived its name from the castle, rather than the castle from the town, in whatever language they may be deno- minated. What appellation the British settlers gave to the rock, the Din of the first people, the Burgh of the Saxon intruders is not quite clear. Aneurin the Ottadinian poet, who wrote during the sixth century, speaks of Dinas Eidyn, the city of Eidyn ; but those poetical expressions must have been applied to some southern city on the Eden river, which was more familiar to Aneurin, who, as he had shared in the unsuccessful conflicts of those times, knew the localities of the affecting scenes. The ancient Triads of the British people notice Caer-Eidyn and Z)i?ias-Eidyn ; yet, is it probable, that the Triads only copied the prior names of the place, and the anterior notice of the thing, from Aneurin. As it is certain that the Romans never had a post on the remarkable site of Edinburgh, it is equally obvious that they never gave it a name, however much conjecture has tortured the expression and the purpose of Ptolomy (a). The oldest name that can now be traced up to this commodious rock is maydyn, to which was added, pleonastically, the English castle ; and this appellation has been applied to several British fortlets in North and South Britain. We may, from all those circumstances, infer tliat the Gadeni people had a strength on this site, the scene of so many struggles, at the troublous epochs of the Roman abdication and of Saxon intriision [h). " The Britons," saith Camden,

(a) See Camden's Britannia ; Horsley, 364 ; Gordon's Iter. Septent., 180-83.

(6) Wyntoun's Cronykyl, i., 54. That Celtic name certainly preceded tlie Saxon ; for the Castrum Puellarum appears, as its designation, in charters at the dawn of record. Now, this is a mere trans- lation of Maiden Castle, which is itself the mere vulgarism of the May-dijn of the British people. Baxter, who has an ingenious etymon always at hand, informs us that the Maid^ Castle is the Maidun

v.zniH

556 AnACCOUNT [Cb. Y.— Edinburghshire.

" called it Castel Myned Agned, tlie Scots [Scoto-Saxons] the Maiden's castle, and the Virgin's castle, of certain young maidens of the royal blood, who were kept there in old time." Such were the popular traditions which this learned antiquary thought it worth his while to adopt. The whole proceeded, probably, from the Maydyn of the British times. Hence, the Maiden castle ; hence, the Castrum puellarum ; and hence, the fable of the Pictish princesses, who are feigned to have been educated in a castle which seems to have never belonged to the Pictish people. The late Lord Hailes, indeed, made it a question of serious inquiry whether Edinburgh Castle was ever known by the name of Castrum puellarum (c) ; but Walter Hemingford would have answered that question in the affirmative (c?), and the Chartulary of Newbotle would have shown him the way to the Castrum puellarum (e). On this question, then,

of tlie British, signifying ingcntis Collis. The affix din is obviously the British word for a castle, and the research of Bullet has found Mai, in the Gaulish, to signify grand. Yet the fact perhaps does not warrant this exposition. Mai-din, British, or Magh-dun, Gaelic, may appositely signify the fort, or fortified mount, in the plain, and there is nothing in the Saxon that would apply, with any fitness, to the thing signified. What may be found in the Scandinavian Gothic upon the point, I pretend not to know !

(c) Scots Mag., 1773, p. 120. There is one answer in p. 222, and a second in p. 240.

(fZ) Historia, i., 98. After the capture of Eosburgh Castle by Edward I. in 1296, Hemingford adds: " Profeetus est, cum exercitu toto, ad Castrum Puellarum, quod Anglice dicitur Edensburch." In a prior age, indeed, M. Paris, in giving an account of the English physician who was sent in 1255 to Edinburgh Castle, to visit the discontented queen of Alexander III., says : " Cum autem idem magister Eeginaldus [the doctor] ad Castrum Puellarum, quod viilgariter dicitur Edenhurc, exposita adventus sui causa et literas ostenderet tarn regis quam reginae Anglorum, dictam oaxisam testificantes, admissus est benigne." Hist., 907. This is a still more curious passage than the former from Hemingford. We thus perceive that Castrum Puellarum was the learned named of the place, and Edenburc only the vulgar appellation. In a still prior period we shall immediately find that CasteUum Puellarum was the technical and diplomatic name of Edinburgh Castle, which was one of the five castles which William the Lion surrendered to Henry II. in 1174, viz., the castles of Roxburgh, Berwick, and Gadeworthe, CasteUum Puellarum, et CasteUum de Stryvlyn. Eym., i., 89 ; Hoveden, 545 ; and Fordun, the best of the Scottish historians, in giving an account of the defeat of Gue}', the Count of Namur, on the burgh moor, in 1335, says he retreated to the site of the ruined "Castrum Puellarum de Edinburgh." L. xiii., c. 35.

(e) There is a charter of Eadulphus, the abbot of Holyrood, giving the monks of Newbotle " illam partioulam terre nostre in feodo de Petendreich que jacet ex orientale parte vie regie et " publice que ducit a monasterio de Newbotle versus Castrum Puellarum ; scilicet, inter ixircum " juxta Newbotle et rivulem que dicitur Balnebuth versus aquilonem et inter viam predictam et "terram dictorum monacLorum versus orientem." Chart. Newbot., No. 16. There is no date to this charter, but it must have been made, as we know from the name of the grantor, about the year 1253.

Sect. I.— Its Name.] OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 557

there can no longer be any doubt. The fact is, that the name of the castle was very early applied to the town, and to the monastery below it, as we might indeed learn from Hemingford in 1296, and from M. Paris in 1255 (/). We now perceive that the earliest name of this metropolis was imposed by the Gadeni people in their own significant speech, whose strength it was, even before the arrival of Agricola among them during the first century.

There is still less difiiculty in ascertaining when the Saxon name of the same capital was imposed by Edwin, the Northumbrian king, who gave his own celebrated appellation to the burgh on the rock, whence the town derived its appropriate designation (g). The Saxon name then assumed the forms of Edivines-hurgh and Edenes-burgh, the ybr< of Edwin [h).

(/) There was a charter of David I. witnessed by William, the abbot "de Castello Puellanim." Charleton's Hist. Whitby, 82. "An" 1154, Malcolmus rex dedit ecclesiam de Travement canonicis de Castello Puellanim." Chron. Sanct. Crucis Edin. in Anglia Sacra, i., 161. There is a charter of Malcolm IV. to the monks of Cambuskenneth, which was dated "apud oppidum puellarum." Chart. Cambus., 54. In the charters of David I., who demised in 1153, we may perceive that he sometimes speaks of those objects by the name of Castrum Pitellarum, and sometimes by the name of Edenhimjh. Chart. Newbot., 27-8; Chart. Kelso, 8; MS. Monast. Scotia, IOC; Chart. May, 9; Dugd. Monast., ii., 1055. There is a charter of Earl Henry, who died in 1152, in which Edin- burgh Castle is called Castrum Puellarum. Chart. Kelso, 240. Several of the charters of Malcolm IV., who demised in 1165, bear to have been granted at the Castrum Puellarum, at Castellum Puellarum, at Oppidum Puellarum, and at Edinburg. Chart. Newbot., 159, 175 ; Chart.'' Paisley, 8 ; Chart. Cambusken., 54 ; Chart. Aberd., 211 ; Chart. May, 16 ; and Chart. Autiq. Bibl. Harl., 11. Of the charters of William, who succeeded his brother in 1165, few were granted at Edinburo-h. Of those few, most of them are dated from Edinburgh, and scarcely any from Castellum Puellaruvi. Many of the charters of Alexander II. were dated from Edinburgh Castle, as he resided in it ; and he uses the designation of Castrum Puellarum generally, and but seldom Edinburg. See the Chartularies throughout. Alexander III., who demised in 1286, dates his charters commonly from Castrum Puellarum, sometimes Castellum Puellarum ; once, in 1278, he speaks of his residence at Castrum. Puellarum de Edinburgh, but never, as far as appears, by the name of Edinburgh only. See his charters. It is unnecessary to trace so clear a point any further. It daes not appear, however, that the coins of the Scottish kings bear Castrum Puellarum, or Oppidum Puellarum, as the name of the place of mintage.

{(/) Edwin, the potent king of Northumberland, fell a premature sacrifice to civil discord in 634 a.d. Savill's Fasti, annexed to the " Scriptores Post Bedam."

(h) See the charters of Scone by Alexander I., and of Ilolyroodhouse by David I. Sir James Dalrymple's Col. ; and Maitland's Edinburgh. See also the Coins of William the Lion, in Cardonnel's Numismata, pi. 1 : "Adam on Edenebu — .'' We thus see that the name of the mintmaster was Adam, and that the language of the inscription was Saxon ; the A.-S. on, being placed to denote the English in. This, then, is a very early specimen of the Saxon speech of Edinburgh. See Caledonia, i., 254. Fordun, however, has his own fiction, i., 64 ; and Wyntoun has his conceit, which comes nearer to the British original. Cronyc, i., 54.

4 4 B

558 AnACCOUNT [Ch. \.— Edinburghshire.

The next change of this dignified name was from the Saxon to the Gaelic, from Edwins-hurgh to Dun-Edin ; and herein the philologist may perceive the different formations of the Saxon and the Gaelic, the name of the Saxon king being prefixed in the first, and the name of the same king being annexed in the last. Nor is this translation so modern as superficiality would suppose. The Register of the priory of St. Andrews, in recording the demise of Edgar [1107], says, " mortuus in Dun-Eden et sepultus in Dunfermling (/)."

In more recent times this metropolis has received, from ignorance and refinement, several names which betray the unpropitious sources whence they proceeded. Bolton, in his admirable Hypercritica, when exposing the absurdity of changing proper names in Latin histories, adds : " In this fine and mere schoolish folly Buchanan is often taken, not without casting his reader into obscurity." It was he who first called the Scottish metropolis Edina rather than Edinburg-us, which had been more appropriate though less poetical {K).

The charters we have just seen cast the clearest lights on the ancient names of Edinbui-gh, but the seals of this city rather obscure the clear than illustrate the dark. There is a veiy ancient seal, which was engraved at the expense of the Antiquary Society of London, in the work of Astle on the Scottish seals Q).

(J) Innes's Crit. Essay, 797-803. In more recent times, indeed, Edinburgh is called, in Gaelic, Dvn-monaidh, tlie hill of the moor, both in the Highland Tales, and in Bishop Oarswell's Translation of the Service of the Church, which was printed at Edinburgh.

(i) The classical name is now Edinensis. See the elegant title page of the Transactions of the Eoyal Society of Edinbui'gh. Lesley, the contemporary and rival of Buchanan, says, indeed : " Cruthnaeus Camelodunum Primariam Pictorum urbem, et Agnedam, jDOstea Ethinburgiim ab Etho " quodam Pictorum rege dictam, cum Puellarum Castro (ubi regis et nobilium Pictorum filise, dum " nuptui darentur, servari et praeceptis ad humanitatem et virtutem informari solebant) condidit." Edit. Eome, 1578, p. 84. In his curious map, however, Lesley has Edinburyum; but St. Andrews he dignifies as the metropolis.

(/) PI. ii.. No. 1 : The committee of antiquaries was unable to read the legend of this seal, and the letterpress in p. 13, by way of exposition, says that "it is doubtful if the Castrum Puellarum be not Dumfries, though repeatedly inferred to be Edinburgh by our English historians of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries.'' But we have seen above, from a thousand charters, what fitness there was in this doubt of antiquarianism. I was disposed to doubt whether there was such a seal of Edinburgh, till I received a letter from Col. Henry Hutton of the Artillery, who is compiling a Moimsticon Scotiw, dated the 13th of September, 1801 : "I met with a curious old <' seal of Edinburgh, the last time I was in Scotland, appendant to some old papers (I think of " the 15th century), in the charter room of the city [of Edinburgh]. It has two sides, on one "of which is the figure of St. Giles [the guardian saint of the city], with a legend, which has " hitherto baffled all my endeavours to decipher." I have also tried in vain to decipher the game legend. There is the delineation of Sir James Balfour, of the common seal of Edinburgh

Sect. YlU.—Its Situation and Extent.'] OpNOETH-BEITAIN. 559

Maitland seems to have been the first inquirer who freed both the history of Edinburo-h and the oriafin of its name, from the fables which had involved both for ages in fictitious honours (m).

In the meantime, the shire of Edinburgh was known both in history and tradition, by the significant name of Mid-Lothian. The fine country lying along the Forth, from the Tweed to the Avon, was scarcely known by the name of Lothian till the tenth century had almost expired (n). During the reign of David I., Lothian still extended southward to the Tweed (o). It was during the subsequent reigns restricted to the country lying northward of the Lammermoor, and in the 13th century, Lothian became divided, by the na- tional policy, into three parts, which were known in the tradition and recog- nized in the law of the nation, by the names of East, West, and Mid- Lothian {p).

§ II. Of its Situation and Extent.'] Mid-Lothian has Linlithgow on the west, the Forth on the north, Haddington and a small part of Berwick on the east, and Selkirk, Peebles, and Lanark on the south. Edinburghshire or Mid-Lothian lies between 55° 39' 30", and 55° 59' 20" north latitude; and between 2° 52', and 3° 45' 10" west longitude from Greenwich. The college of Edinburgh, according to astronomical observations, stands in 55° 57' 57" of north latitude, and 3° 12' west longitude of Greenwich (g). Edinburgh- city, in the Brit. Mus. Harl., 4694. The device is a large castle. The legend is — " S. Commune burgi de Edenburgi." One of the earliest maps of Edinburgh is that of James Gordon of Rothiemay, during the reign of Charles I., which was engraved by F. de Wit of Amsterdam ; and he calls the city civitas Edinodunensis.

(m) Mait. Hist. Edin., 2-6.

(n) Caledonia, i. 259, wherein the meaning of the word Lothian is investigated.

(o) See the charter of Robert I. Robert. Index, 155.

(p) Bagimont's Roll ; Transact. Antiq. Soc. Edin., 119.

(q) Doctor Lind had the goodness to communicate to me the mean result of many observations by the astronomers at Hawkhill observatory, as follows : —

N. Lat. W. Long, of Greenwich.

HawkhUl obsei-vatory, 55° 5S' 28" - - 3° 10' 7"

The Steeple of St. Giles' Church, Edinburgh, - 55° 57' 38" - - 3° 11' 55" The Summit of Arthur's Seat, - .- - 55° 57' 18" - - 3° 10' 0"

There must be some error in noting the longitude of the summit of Arthur's Seat, which is somewhat westward of Hawkhill, and must be about 3° 10' 50" W. of Greenwich. In Andrew Hart's Bible, which was printed at Edinburgh in 1610, there is an e.vact CaUender, calculated to the latitude of Edinburgh, which is under 56 degrees. This Callender was calculated by Robert Pont, the father of Timothy, the topographer.

560 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

shire extends from east to west, 38 [36] miles, and from north to south 15 [24] miles. These measm-ements give a superficies of 358 [367] square miles, which contain 229,120 [234,926] EngHsh acres (?•), and the number of people being in 1801, 124,124, this population is equal to 34'671 souls to a square mile.

The three Lothians have been often sui-veyed. Timothy Pont finished his map during the i-eign of Charles I. (s). The thi'ee Lothians were again sur- veyed during King William's reign by John Adair, with less skill j^erhaps, and certainly with less utility (i). John Laurie published a valuable map of Mid-Lothian in 1763, and in 1773, Andrew and Mostyn Armstrong, published a six sheet map of the three Lothians, which was reduced and engraved by Kitchen (u); and there is a very useful sketch of this shire pre- fixed to the Agricultural Survey of Mid-Lothian, by George Robertson in 1795, with a view to its important subject. In proportion, as old notices are relinquished for new intimations, such surveys become less helpful to the topographer and less amusive to the reader.

§ in. Of its natural Objects.^ The area of Edinburghshire may be considered as mountainous. The Pentlaud hills commence in Liberton parish, near the centre of the county ; and extend in a south-west direction about twelve miles ; stretching beyond the boundary of the shire into Peebles. The Caerketau Craig, which is situated at the northern extremity of the Pentland I'ange, rises above the level of the sea fourteen hundred and fifty feet, ainidst other hills of great heights (x). The Logan-house hill, which is situated towards the middle of

()■) On the large map of Mid-Lothian, in 1763, by Laurie, the superficies of this shire is 358 square miles, or 229,120 statute acres. On the map of the Lothians by Armstrong it is 337 square miles, or 241,280 statute acres. On Arrowsmith's map of Scotland, from the Engineers' Survey, this shire contains 358 square miles, or 229,120 statute acres, -which I have adopted, as most accurate.

(s) His map of Lothian and Linlithgow is No. 9 of Blaeu's Atlas Scotia, and is of considerable value.

(t) The Surveys of Adair were engraved by R. Cooper.

((() The latitudes and longitudes of this map were supplied by that excellent mathematician, the Eev. Alexander Bryce, of Kirknewton.

(x) The Pentland hills of the northern range rise above the sea-level, according to Laurie's map of Mid-Lothian, to the following elevations : —

Leep Hill, - . . . 1,500 feet. A nameless hill, - - - 1,350 feet.

Caerketan Hill, - - - 1,450 A nameless hill, - - - 1,340

Castle Law, - - - 1,390 [1,595] Craigintan-ie, - - - 1,210

Beet. lU.—ris natural Objects.] OfNORTH-BRITAIN. 561

the same range and is the highest of the Pentland hills, has been found by the most accurate observations to be seventeen hundred feet above the level of the sea at Leith, and is surrounded by other hills of great heights (?/). The Spital hill, which is the most southerly of the Pentland range, rises amid other hills to a great elevation (2). The Pentland hills* in Glencorse parish, like the other eminences of that mountainous tract, consist of different sorts of whinstone and of other lapideous strata, which are commonly termed primitive rocks.

Next to the Pentland mountains the Moorfoot hills are the most conspicuous ranges. From Coatlaw, standing on the west side of Moorfoot water, the most northerly range stretches east-north-east about ten miles, having Tvveeddale on the west, and terminates in Cowberry hill near the source of the Gala water (a). The other range also branches off from Coatlaw on the western point, and extends, with a wider spread than the former, about ten miles in a south-east direction over the extensive country which is drained by the Heriot and Luggate waters {h). These two ranges of the Moorfoot heights may be regarded as two sides of a large triangle, having the river Gala for its base on the east. The northern range of the Moorfoot liills cuts off, as it were, from Edinburghshire, the parishes of Heriot and Stow, which form the south- east corner of this county. Heriot and Stow, which constitute a sort of district by themselves, are watered by the Heriot and Gala streams. They are studded irregularly by some round hills which, however, do not form any regular range (c). In Pvatho parish there is a small congeries of hills which run from

(?/) The Pentland hills of the middle range rise above the sea-level, according to Laurie's map, to the following elevations : —

A nameless hill, - - 1,600 feet.

Carnethie, - - - 1,500 [1,890]

Black Hill, East, - - 1,550

Kipps Hill, - - 1,420 feet [1,806].

Black Hill, West, - 1,360

Hare Hill, - - 1,330 [1,470].

{z) The Pentland hills of the southern range rise above the sea-level, according to Laurie's map, to the following elevations : — •

The Spital Hill to - - 1,360 feet. Three nameless hills, in the south part of the

range, to 1,390, 1,380, 1,310 feet.

(a) Coatlaw, the most westerly of those mountains, rises to the height of 1,680 feet, above the level of the sea. There are other hills among the Moorfoot eminences which rise above the same level to the different elevations of 1,500, 1,450. 1,430, 1,400, 1,390, 1,360, and 1,320 feet. Laurie's map of Mid- Lothian.

(J) Blackhope Scares, which is the highest hill in this range, rises 1,850 feet above the level of the 8ea. The other hills in this range ascend to the various elevations of 1,G80, 1,G60, 1,630, 1,600, 1,560, 1,540, 1,520, 1,470, and 1,410 feet above the same level. Id.

(c) Agricult. Survey, 18.

* Scald Law, 1,898 feet, is the highest hill iu the Pentland range.

562 An ACCOUNT [Ch.Y.—EcUnhurghshire.

nortli to south about a mile and a half, and which ai-e called Piatt hills, from two hamlets that are situated on two of those mountainets (cZ). Through the parish of Corstorphine run the hills of this name, in a curving direction from south-east to north-west, for an extent of two miles, and rise to an elevation of four hundred and seventj-four feet above the level of the sea. The Corstorphine hills could hardly have gained the appellation of mounts if they had not been in a manner insulated in the midst of a rich plain, which is several miles in extent, wherein they rise four hundred and seventy-four feet above the level of the sea, and exhibit several indentations along their summits, which make them a very con- spicuous object. Between Dalmahoy and the river Leith, on the south, there are three hills in a line, which are called Dalmahoy Craigs (e). On the summit of the hill of Ravelrig there seems to be a ri)}g camp, and at the base of it an en- campment of a square form, which is indicative of a Roman work {/). Between the parishes of Crichton and Cranston on the east, and Cockpen and Dalkeith on the west, there is a continued ridge of hill which stretches nearly six miles from south to north, and which does not much obstruct the road from Edin- burgh to Coldstream that crosses its centre (g).

Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Craigs exhibit a wild and romantic scene of vast precipices and broken rocks which, from some points, seem to overhang the lower suburbs of Edinburgh (/<). In any other situation than the singular site of Edinburgh, the Calton-hill, which has scarcely been noticed by tourists, would be considered as an eminence of considerable height, as a rock of uncommon appearance, that supplies a walk of very diversified views.

Edinburghshire is undoubtedly well watered. The Forth, which bounds it on the north, communicates to this county many advantages of navigation, of food, and of fertilization. After the Forth the Esk may be said to be the chief river, which is composed of two streams that unite their kindred waters below Dalkeith, and glide in a deep channel into the Forth at Inveresk. The Esk is swelled by the waters of many streams from the Pentland hills, particularly by the Glencorse water near Achindinny, and after a various course of

(d) The Piatt hills are GOO feet above the level of the sea.

(e) The southmost is 680 feet, and the next is 660 feet, above the sea.

(/) Armstrong's map ; Stat. Acco. of Currie, v. 5, p. 326.

(g) The sketch of the county in the Agricult. Survey. That ridge is, in different places, 550, 590, 600, and 680 feet above the sea-level.

(k) Pennant's Tour, 55. Arthur's Seat rises 790 [822] feet above the sea-level ; Salisbury Craigs, 550 [574] feet ; and the Calton Hill, 320 [348] feet. Laurie's map.

Sect. Ul.—Tis Natural Objects.'] OfNOETH-BRITAIN. 563

two-and-twenty miles, contributes by its junction to form " the murmuring Esk."

Several streamlets whicb flow from Cairn-edge, a billy range that separates Peebles from Edinburgh, form the commodious river Leith, which flows in a hollow channel between well wooded banks. It afterwards receives the Beve- law burn with some smaller x'ivulets, and coursing in a north-east direction two-and-twenty miles it glides into the Forth, where its issue, which was of old called Inverleith, forms the port of Leith («). Almond river, which rises in Lanarkshire, and runs through the southern corner of Linlithgowshire, first waters Edinburghshire, where it is joined by the Breich-Burn. The Almond, from this junction, forms the boundary between the shires of Linlithgow and Edinburgh till it falls into the Forth at Cramond, the Caea-amon of the Britons, the Alaterva of the Romans ; except, indeed, for the course of two miles with- in the parish of Mid-Calder, where the county of Edinburgh projects a mile to the westward of it. The Gala water rises in the Moorfoot range. It is soon enlarged by the greater volume of Heriot stream, when both take the name of the Gala. It is joined in its course by Luggate water, with several streamlets which drain the valley through which it glides. The Gala now pursues its southerly direction for ten miles, when it enters Selkirkshire, and after a meandering course mixes its waters with the Tweed, which peoples it with the finny tribes. Such are the streams which oniament and benefit Edinburgh- shire. Yet, do they not furnish an abundant fisheiy, either for foreign trafiic or domestic use. Nor are there any lakes in this shire, which, for their size or usefulness, or embellishment, merit much mention.

This country abounds with minerals and fossils. Beds of pit-coal stretch across the country from Carlops to Musselburgh, from south-west to north-east, fifteen miles in length and eight in breadth. This valuable fuel has been known and used here since the happy times of Alexander II., if not earlier. There are at present raised yearly about a hundred and eighty thousand tons, of the value of thirty-nine thousand pounds. Limestone equally abounds in Edinburghshire, though it lies nearer to the hills. There are probably made in every year sixteen hundred thousand bushels, which are worth ten thousand

(t) This is tlie most useful river of any in Edinburglishire, perhaps in Scotland. In the course of ten miles it drives 14 corn mills, 12 barley mills, 20 flour mills, 7 saw mills, 5 fulling mills, 5 snuff mills, 4 paper mills, 2 lint mills, and 2 leather mills. Stat. Acco., six., p. 590. The rent of some of those mills, which are in the vicinity of the metropolis, is upwards of £20 sterling per foot of water-fall, and it forms at its confluence the commercial port of Edinburgh.

564 A N A C C 0 U N T Ch. Y.— Edinburghshire.

pounds. There is in this shire great plenty of freestone, and of good quality. Granite and whinstone are found in every parish. In Penicuik there are found millstones, marble, and petrifactions. The annual value of all those does not surpass six thousand pounds. Ironstone abounds, and copper exists. What has been found of marl is sufficient to show that more might be discovered in this county by diligent search (k). A copper mine was laid open in 1754, at Lumphoy, on Leith water, six miles south-west of Edinburgh (l).

The mineral waters of this shire contribute to preserve or to restore the health of the inhabitants. St. Bernard's Well, on the rocky margin of the Leith water, has been recently praised for its good qualities, perhaps equal to its real value. In Cramond parish there is a mineral spring, which is called the Well of Spa, and has been found beneficial in scorbutic complaints (m). In Mid-Calder parish there are sulphureous waters, which have been experienced, like those of Harrogate, to be beneficial in complaints of scrofula and gravel. In the more elevated parish of Penicuik there are several chalybeate springs, which are supposed by the common people to have cured them of many maladies. Two miles southward of Edinburgh is St. Catherine's, or the oily well, which engaged the protection of King James ; and is said to have cured cutaneous and other disorders of the people, " though plunged in ills and exer- cised in cares."

§ rv. Of its Antiquities.^ The natural objects which have just been men- tioned may be deemed some of its earliest antiquities. But it is the colonization of the area of this shire by the progressive settlements of the Britons, the Romans, the Saxons, and the Scoto-Irish, with the languages which they left in its topography, that ought to be considered as the most interesting of its antiquities, because they are the most instructive. The Ottadini and Gadeni people, the British descendants of the first colonists, enjoyed their original land during the second century of our common era ; as we know from Ptolomy and Richard (n) ; and their language, as it appears in the maps of this shire, is a satisfactory proof of their settlement and genealogy (o). The Romans seem not to have left in the topography of Mid- Lothian any speci-

(k) Stat. Acco., X., 429 ; xv., 437 ; sviii., 371 : Agiioult. Survey, 25-6.

(t) Scots Mag., 1754, 450. (m) Wood's History of Crataond, 115.

(n) Caledonia, i., 58-59.

(o) Those Britisli people left, in the names of the waters within Mid-Lothian, indubitable traces of their significant speech. There are, as we have seen, the Forth, the Badotria of Tacitus, the Almond, the Esk, the Leith, the Brelch, the Gore, and the rivulet Gogar. In the appellation of places, may

Seci.lV.— rts Antiquities.] Op NORTH -BEITAIN. 565

mens of iheir language, whatever remains tliey may have left of their roads and encampments, their baths and sepulchres. Soon after their abdication the Anglo-Saxons intruded into Mid-Lothian, though in fewer numbers than settled in Berwick and in Haddington, as we may infer from the smaller number of the names which have been imposed by them in this shire than in either of those counties ( j?). The Scoto-Irish came in from the west at length upon the British, perhaps, and ujDon the Anglo-Saxon settlers in Mid -Lothian. As we proceed westward from the Tweed along the Forth, through the shires of Berwick, and Haddington, and Edinburgh, we see the Gaelic names gradually increase in numbers (q). The Celtic names appear to be in this shire about one-fourth of the Anglo-Saxon, owing probably to the superlnduction of the English names both upon the Gaelic and the Anglo-Saxon names proper. But the English appellations are not fit objects of this etymological inquiry, as they may be said to have been applied to their several localities within time of memory. The Gaelic names were imposed partly after 843 a.d., the commencement of the Scottish period, but more perhaps after Lothian had been ceded, in 1020 A.D. to the Scottish king. In this manner, then, are the facts of topo- graphy usefully brought in to support the feeble intimations of dubious history in exclusion of traditional fictions.

Edinburghshire does not abound in the stone monuments of the earliest people. In Kirknewton parish, however, there are still appearances of druidical

be equally traced to tlie Celtic speecli : Cramond, Cockpen, Caerbarrin [Carberry], Dreg-horn, Dal- keith, Inch-Keith, Kail, Nidref [Nidderie], Pendreich, Eoslin, lieir-hiW, Lin-ioot, Z,tn-house water, and others might be instanced to show how the English adjuncts have been engrafted on British roots.

(p) The Anglo-Saxon names of places appear to decrease in numbers as we proceed towards the north and west, where the Scoto-Irish begin to prevail. In the south and south-east may be seen the Anglo-Saxon, Latv, Rigg, Dod, Shiel, Lee, Dean, Hope, Ham, Burgh, Wic, Shaw, By, Cleugh, Holm, Threap, and Chester. There are a few instances of Saxon words in single names, as, Stoiu ; Botle, in Newbotle ; Wade, or Weid, in Lass-wade ; Thwait, in Morthwait [Morphet]. But there is no example of Fell; nor any intimation that a Scandinavian people ever resided in Edinburghshire.

{fj) The most obvious Gaelic names are : Achincorth, A chenlecks-walls, Achinhonnd-hiW, Aehligamel, Allerniore-hWX, Achendenny, Achenoul, Badds, Balgreen, Badlicih, Balernoe, Bellernt), Braid, Catcuin, Colder, Crossaimit, Carnethie-\i.\\\, Cairnie, Cmni-hill, Craig, Craigentarrie, Currie, Dairy, Drum- sheugh, Dalmahoy, Dalwolsie [Dalhousie], Drum, Drumaben, Drumdrynan, Drumhraiden, Garvald, Glencorse, InveresJc, Inch, Inverleith, Killiii-waier, Killeith, Lumphoy, Moredun, Pow-hurn, Phantassie, Ratho, Torpichen-\n\\, Torqiiehan, Torsonce, Tipperlin, Torphin, Torhreclc, Kipps, Wymet [Wolmet]. The Celtic Pol, or Pow, appears only in Pow-burn, Po/-beth, and Pol-ton ; but there are not in this shire any instance of either Aid or Gil.

4 4 0

oGO A N A C C 0 U N T [Cb. Y.—Edinburglishire.

circles {>•). On Heriot-town bill there is a circle consisting of high stones, and measuring seventy or eighty feet in diameter (a). Such are the faint memorials of the worship which the first settlers offered to the Deity, There are many cairns in this shire which may be equally deemed the funereal monuments of the pristine inhabitants. In Borthwick parish, on the lands of Currie, thei'e are several cairns, the cemeteries of the earliest times (t). On the ground of Comiston, in Colinton parish, there are two very large conical cairns wherein human bones have been found, with fragments of ancient armour. Not far from those curious remains stands a massy block of whin- stone which is called the Ca<-stane, and which is seven feet high above the ground and more than four feet below it («). All those intimations denote the site of an early conflict, as indeed the remains of an ancient encampment evince. In Mid-Calder parish there are several mounds of earth which appear to be the repositories of the dead, and which are known in the southern parts of our island by the appropriate name of harrows (x). In the vicinity of Newbotle Abbey there was of old a large tumulus which was composed of earth, of a conical fiu'ure, 30 feet high and 90 feet diameter at the base, and which was surrounded by a circle of stones. This barrow, which had a fir tree growing on its summit, was removed when Newbotle house was rebuilt. Upon opening this tumulus there was found a stone cofiin near seven feet long that con- tained a human skull, which was presented to the Antiquarian Society of Edin- burgh, in April 1782 (y). In August, 1754, a farmer ploughing his field at Roslin turned up the cover of a stone cofiin about nine feet long, which contained the bones of a human body. The bones were much decayed, except the skull and teeth, which were sound and large (z). This must have been the grave of some British warrior rather than the cofliin of one of the chiefs who fell in the battles of Roslin during the year 1303.

In Edinburghshire there remain also various specimens of the military art of the earliest people. In Penicuik parish, near the tenth mile-stone from Edinburgh on the Linton road, is an oval camp on an eminence which

(r) Stat. Acco., ix., 415. {s) lb., xvi., 67.

(<) lb., xiii., 635, Below the tumuli, and even around them, there have been dug up earthen pots, which were full of half-burnt bones, and which were each covered by a flat stone. The pots were of coarse, but curious workmanship, and were ornamented with various figures. lb., 63G.

(«) lb., xix., 591 ; and Maitland, Edin., 508. The name is obviously derived from the British Cad, the Gaelic Calk, signifying a battle ; and cat-stane means the battle-stone.

(a;) Stat. Acco., xiv., 371. (i/) Account of that Society, 95.

{z) Scots Mag., 1754, 402.

Sect. lY. — rts Antiquities.] Or NORTH- BRITAIN. 567

measure.^ within eighty-four by sixty-seven yards, enclosing a number of* tumuli that are each eleven yards in diameter. It is encompassed by two ditches, each four yards wide, with a mound of six yards between them, having three entrances, and it is called, by the tradition of the country, the Castle. There is a similar encampment on the bank of Harkenburn, within the woods of Penicuik (a). In Borthwick parish, on the farm of Cat- cune, there is a field which has immemorially been called the Chesters, in the middle whereof there is an oval encampment measuring about half an acre. In the midst of this oval is an immense round whinstone, which labour has not yet been able to remove, and a hundred yards distant from it are several cairns, the sepulchral monuments of the warriors who had defended the Cat'Cune, the battle-hillock, as the Celtic name imports (6). In Crichton parish, at Longfaugh, there are the remains of a camp having a circular form, which may still be traced on a rising ground. In the neighbourhood of this ancient strength there have been recently dug up many bones, the only rests of the brave men who were its best defence (c). In Heriot parish, on Midhill- head, there may still be seen three large rings or deep ditches, of about a hundred paces diameter, the obvious security of the earliest people (d). In Liberton parish there is an ancient rampart of an oval form. In the same vicinity, there are the remains of fortifications, which retain the characteristic names of Kaims. There are near them two tumuli, called Cae?'-cZ;f^-knows, or the Black Camp on the knolls, and there are also here, as proper accompaniments of so many warlike objects, Cai-stanes or battle-stones (e).

(a) Scots Mag., s., 431.

(h) A mile and a half soutli-west from tliis field, on the lands of Middleton, are Chesters of quite a different description. The former Chester is on a southern exposure ; these Chesters are on a northern. They are on a sloping bank, and consist of five terraces, alternately overhanging a pleasant valley and rivulet. The Reverend Mr. Clunie, the minister of Borthwick, MS. letter to me. These last intimations seem to import that the site of a camp had been converted into a place of sport.

(c) Stat. Acco., xiv., 436. (d) lb., xvi., 57-8.

(e) Antiq. Trans. Edin., 304-8. In the ancient British speech, Cad signifies a battle, a striving to keep ; so Cath, in the Gaelic, equally signifies a battle. The Saxons, who affixed their word sfane to the Celtic term Cat, found those memorials of warfare already in existence, and adopted a previous appellation, which perhaps they did not perfectly understand. Caer also means, in the British, a mound, for defence; and Du, black; and so in the Gaelic form of the same word Duff, signifies black. We have already seen Cat-stune and Cat-cane ; and there are, on the northern side of the Pentland hills, the Cat-henTps. Mait. Hist. Edin., 507. The prefixes Cath, Cat, Cad, all carry the intelligent mind back to the disastrous conflicts of Celtic times.

568 AnACCOUNT [Ch. Y.—Edinburgfishire.

In Lasswade parish, near the house of Mavis-bank, there is a circular mount of earth, which is begirt with ramparts that are now cut into terraces. Herein have been found ancient weapons of brass, with fibulae, bridle-bits, and other warlike articles of a similar nature {/). There is reason to believe that the Komaus according to their custom, may have taken possession of this ancient strength, as a commodious post for protecting their passage of the Esk (g). In Ratlio parish, there are two ancient strengths which are surrounded by i-amparts ; the one on Kaims-hill, in the south-western part of the parish ; and the other on the South Plat-hill, near the manse. The last has been greatly destroyed, by carrying away the stones for the various purposes of improvement (h). To this class of military antiquities may be referred the Maiden castles of Roslin and of Edinburgh, as fortlets of the British people, which the name pretty plainly intimates ; and this circumstance will probably lead some minds to consider the Castrum Puellarum of Edinburgli, as a Gadeni strength of the very earliest times. To all those may be added the caves of Hawthornden, which were probably the hiding places of the first people, and which may have been Improved by more recent warriors. If we except the topographical language which is still spoken in this shire, those notices indicate the chief remains of the Ottadlni and Gadeni, the British tribes who had inhabited the wilds of this shire, during a thousand years before they were disturbed by the intrusion of strangers.

Towai'ds the conclusion of the first century, the Romans entered upon the area of Edinburghshire, and they retained their possession more than three hundred and sixty years, by roads, by camps, and by naval stations. Their antiquities have been already investigated, and need not be i-epeated («). During

(y") In Penicuik parish, near Brunt-stane Castle, was lately found an arrow-head of flint, barbed, which was about two inches long and one inch broad. It is preserved in Penicuik House. Stat. Acco., X., 420-5.

(^) lb., s., 286-7 ; Roy's Milit. Antiq., 103. Eoy points to this place as the traject of the Bomans over the North Esk, on their route to Cramond.

(h) Stat. Acco., vii., 264.

(t) See Caledonia, i., 164-66. A gold coin of the Emperor Vitellius was found in 1775 by ploughing a field in the neighbourhood of Penicuik House, and presented to the Antiquarian Society of Edinburgh by Sir James Clerk in 1782. Ace. of the Society, p. 62. A copper coin of the Emperor Vespasian was found in a garden at the Pleasance of Edinburgh, and was pre- sented to the same society by Doctor John Aitkin in 1782. lb., 72. Near lugleston, in Eatho, there was long ago dug up a piece of a pillar, having upon each side the Eoman seciirii; the badge and ensign of magistracy, says Sibbald, who presented this relict to the College of Edinburgh. Sibbald's Eoman Ant., 40.

Sect. IV.— Its A ntiquities.'] OrNOETH-BRITAIN. 569

their long residence in this shire, the Romans erected altars that are supposed even now to be seen, and dropt their coins and their arms, which are often found. At length their legions retired from the shores of the Forth, whereon they delighted to dwell ; and at the epoch of 44G A.D., the Romans abdicated their government within their province of Valentia, leaving the Ottad'mi and Gadeni in possession of the pleasant country of their British forefathers, with- out any pretension of the Picts, or any intrusion of the Scots.

At the commencement of the Pictish period, the Romanized descendants of the first settlers were doomed to sustain a fresh struggle, which, from their new habits, they were little able to encounter. They were invaded by a fierce people, who, as they were of a different lineage, spoke a dissimilar language ; and they were over-run during the year 449, rather than subdued, by a Saxon people. But at the end of a century of wretchedness they submitted to the superior genius of the Saxon Ida. They were now mingled with a race who have transmitted their speech and their policy through many ages of change to the present times. They were at length placed under the jurisdiction, both civil and ecclesiastical, of the Northumbrian kingdom. About the year 620, the warlike Edwin built on their northern frontier a hurgh, which ensured their submission, and has transmitted his name with eclat to our inquisitive times. The disaster of the intemperate Egfrid in 685 a.d., gave the ancient people some repose ; but involved the mingled inhabitants in new perturba- tions through ages of conflict. The cession of the Lothians, by a Northumbrian earl to Malcolm II., the Scottish king, in 1020 A.D., introduced among the ancient British and the Anglo-Saxons the Scottish people, who long enjoyed all the prdominancy of superior power. Such were the succeeding people, and various authorities which followed each other in this shire during more than six centuries, either of barbarous quiet or of wasteful hostihty. The several maps of this shire must be considered as curious delineations of the antiquities of the successive colonists, and as satisfactory evidences of their genealogical history.

In addition to all those antiquities there are various objects, which, however regarded by some, can only be deemed modern antiquities ; " because they're old, because they're new." In this class Edinburgh castle is the fii-st point. This fortlet was originally built upon a precipitous rock, whose area measures seven acres; and whose height is 294 [383] feet above the sea-level. It was of